Fixed line for Broadway descent?

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Anders Ourom
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Post by Anders Ourom » Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:22 pm

How many outright novices get to that point in the first place? All the routes leading to the top of Broadway/Baldwin Ledge require a moderate amount of skill, equipment and experience. The 'easiest' ones are perhaps Calculus Crack, St. Vitus' Dance, South Arete, and Snake - none of them trivial. The scenario with a reasonably experienced leader and less experienced second is reasonably likely. And a team would virtually always include either two+ experienced climbers (= able to figure it out) or one+ climbers who has already done the descent (= no surprises). Plus there are often other climbers in the area. The guidebooks are quite clear about the Broadway descent, so no surprises there.

Descents in the rain (uncommon) or when some of the area is damp (April & May, after big storms), need to be factored in.

The simple option is always to belay someone down - anyone's who's gotten to that point can probably place any needed directionals, given a toprope and instructions. But it's worth looking at whether a single 30 m rappel would reasonably work, given the rock geometry there. It isn't straight down to the trees, but is close enough that it's worth considering.

bigwalldirtbag
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Post by bigwalldirtbag » Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:47 pm

hahahahaha nice post sherri :lol:
don't have time to read it all but good entertianment value!!!

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psi4ce
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by psi4ce » Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:13 am

I climbed Diedre yesterday evening.

The fixed rope is back.

One end is tied to a tree on the Diedre summit platform.

It is a fuzzy-looking rope.

I wouldn't trust it.

Anders Ourom
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by Anders Ourom » Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:29 pm

Does anyone know who put the line there, and the reason why there seems to have been no discussion prior to it being done? I haven't seen whatever has been done, but it doesn't sound like it was done well. Apart from the quality of the rope, does the thing actually work? That is, does it actually make it simpler/safer for an inexperienced climber to negotiate that part, as opposed say to being belayed?

Also, are the trees that the rope is tied to padded? Otherwise, it doesn't take much rubbing to bark and eventually kill the trees.

Sounds like the thing will probably be removed fairly quickly. Maybe the Access Society should initiate a discussion as to whether any fixed rope or anchors are appropriate at that point, and perhaps a few other places where they've appeared at Squamish, and if so where, what sort, and based on what criteria? There do seem to be more and more scruffy handlines around, of debatable quality and unknown origin or need.

relic
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by relic » Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:50 pm

Anders Ourom wrote: Apart from the quality of the rope, does the thing actually work? That is, does it actually make it simpler/safer for an inexperienced climber to negotiate that part, as opposed say to being belayed?
I could not believe it when I saw someone had set up a fixed line. For myself, I always stay high when traversing this section and do a butt slide down a couple of feet to the ledge. I have had a couple of partners over the years feel nervous, but coaching them through and offering a belay always worked out for them. I have never considered moving across lower down where the fixed line is situated. Following it puts you in a way more vulnerable and exposed position, like it was someone's cruel joke. It would be way more safe and sensible to belay someone across this section that was too freaked out to deal with it.

This fixed rope is an eyesore, it is not needed, and is less safe than being belayed if needed.

I say chop it.

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thebigchin
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by thebigchin » Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:51 am

I stand by my comments earlier in the thread. Chop Chop Chop

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by gnarnaphobe » Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:14 pm

chopped.. dont know who chopped it but i packed it out of there 8)
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

slopr
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by slopr » Sat Jun 04, 2011 1:08 am

good, see you all on this thread same time next year

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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by Sunday » Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:52 pm

Chopped on the Friday,
replaced on the weekend,
Chopped on Monday

Is a rap ring the Answer ? not for rappelling but for ease of retrieving your rope.. would a newb figure this out?

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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by Sunday » Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:52 pm

Chopped on the Friday,
replaced on the weekend,
Chopped on Monday

Is a rap ring the Answer ? not for rappelling but for ease of retrieving your rope.. would a newb figure this out?

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by gnarnaphobe » Tue Jun 07, 2011 5:54 am

did you pack out the evidence?
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Sunday
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Re: Fixed line for Broadway descent?

Post by Sunday » Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:22 am

Yeah... Broadway Ledge Rope Rug's for sale

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