Best Moderates

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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Shamis
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Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:43 am

Best Moderates

Post by Shamis » Sat Aug 15, 2009 8:36 pm

If some locals would be kind enough, could you please post info/names of your favorite multi-pitch trad routes in squamish in the 5.7 - 5.9+ range. I'd also be willing to do a 10 as long as it isn't sustained climbing.

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Sat Aug 15, 2009 10:37 pm

Hairpin on the Papoose! Although I have never done the original 4th pitch (and 4th class looking), instead opting for the direct .10+ slab.
It's a great climb with one very short cruxy section of maybe .9+ MAX.

avit
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Post by avit » Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:13 am

A few of my picks:

Rock On
Birds of Prey
Angel's Crest (rated at mid-10, but mostly easier. The cruxes are not too bad.)
Diedre (worth doing once, but the traffic sucks)
Upper Black Dyke (I honestly don't think very much of it is actually 5.10:positive holds everywhere.)

slopr
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Post by slopr » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:55 am

Stefanie's Tears @ the Malmute 2 pitches, great position, fun climbing. 5.9, 5.8.
In the bluffs do Old Age, Jabberwocky, Wonderland link up since someone is definitely TR'ing Mosquito right now. Check out that newly developed cliff @ shannon falls discussed recently on the site AMO wall? I think. Cool moderates anyway. Papoose is a great choice too, if you do hairpin make sure to go do Mushroom as well 5.9.
Jungle warfare on the Squaw has some good situations as well with 1 10a move off the ground.

smallman
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Post by smallman » Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:04 am

Snake 5.9 on the apron is a must do especially if you combine it with dessert dyke 10 - and Memorial Crack. I liked the first 4 pitches of Europa - the last four aren't worth doing. It is super sandbagged though at 5.8. I would say the second pitch could almost be 10a. Another good connection in the bluffs would be old age 9 - to Sparky's Crack 8 to sparky goes to wonderland 10 b. Or do Jabberwoky and wonderland after Old Age.

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