Fixed Pins in Squamish

[Optimally-Primed]

I cleaned this pin from a climb in Squamish today. Notice how the steel is not just thin in places, but entirely gone. Next time you clip one of these, think about backing it up.

[5.4 Slayer]

can't see the pic.

[Optimally-Primed]

try this link

or this one

[supafly]

for those who don't want to click through..

[supafly]

or maybe not!

[Dru]

I wonder how much weight a bolt placed at the same date as that pin would support today - probably not very much either given the ancient mank out there on some old routes!

[Optimally-Primed]

[Optimally-Primed]

The climb I removed it from has a really thin crack at the crux. It takes some really small gear. But I was thinking about whether or not to put another pin in. Any opinions about whether or not this Stubai (above) has corrosion problems and/or is suited to the job?

[JSmith]

If the move can be protected with modern gear, why replace the pin? I'd say update the topo and enjoy the new challenge.

[Optimally-Primed]

I climbed the route today. The crag's only half-revitalized/ newly developed so I'm keeping its location quiet just for now. Turns out the move can't be protected, even with RP's. It's a knifeblade/LA crack with holds around it. Now I'm trying to decide whether to replace the pin with another pin, or to replace it with a bolt beside the seam.

[JSmith]

O.P.
I'd say go with a bolt if you're sure it can't be protected with gear (ballnut?). Pins can become unreliable quickly with a few falls, stainless or not. They are also difficult to judge the quality when on lead. Furthermore, bashing a pin in to the same crack several times damages the rock irreversibly. A bolt is best for long term use for sure, and can be removed and filled if ever needed.
Just my two cents.
J.

[Optimally-Primed]

Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I'll give the crack a good solid investigation for any hope of gear (again) before making a final call.

[mocco]

I wonder if Jeremy's suggestion of a bolt may not be the best way to go. The pin that was pulled was pretty manky for sure...any other pin will eventually suffer the same fate. Those Stubai pins are more alpiney, pretty soft for frequently repeated clips...and falls if at a crux.

Sean

[Optimally-Primed]

The image of the pin seems to have disappeared... trying again


The pin is located at the steep, pumpy crux. So falls onto the pin are to be expected. And if these pins aren't made to withstand multiple falls, then a bolt seems to be the wise move...

[Peter]

I would use a bolt, there is no reason to replace a pin with a pin these days, imo.