beta and grade for route in Bluffs

[Cloudraker]

Climbed part of a route in the Bluffs yesterday, located at the crag between Ronin's Corner and the stairs that lead down to Penny Lane etc. The route is on the right side of a series of routes, one of which is a 5.11 arete and the other is a 5.12 - both are bolted. The one we were on begins in a corner and then leads up through some thin seams, above which is a single bolt. From there you probably slab your way up to hand rail an arete/crest and then continue up through blocky terrain.

Anyone know what this is and can confirm where it goes after the lone bolt? It felt 5.10 up to the bolt, and then maybe a 10+ or 11 crux after bolt?

[Dru]

Do you mean at Ronin's West (OAM etc. area) or at Split Beaver?

[Cloudraker]

It's further west than Ronan's West and not split beaver. When you're at the base or on the route you can literally look over to the east at Ronin's Corner about a rope length away.

I don't think it sees much action - and it's atypical for Squamish Bluffs climbing, consisting of a blocky formation that's more alpine than the usual slab, corner, or splitter crag. Anyway, the 5.11 arete and 5.12 route may be in the 2001 guide I have, but the one with the lone bolt seems to be new

[Cloudraker]

Just to be clear, the stairs I'm talking about are the ones that are cut into a fallen log east of Penny Lane. So if you walk up those stairs and then bust right toward Ronin's Corner, this south-facing crag will be the first one you come to.

[Dru]

That *is* Ronin's West and the 5.12 sport route is called Eggrolls Dude. Where is the route you are inquiring about in relation to that?

[Cloudraker]

Oh - it's directly to the right of the 5.12

[Dru]

Then it's an unrecorded variant to Open Air Mission (10d) that got put up in the 90s. You go straight up the thin cracks on the arete where OAM moves right , to the bolt, and then you end up back in OAM higher up.