Mank Patrol

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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DirtBagClimber
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by DirtBagClimber » Fri Feb 27, 2015 8:50 pm

The maillon on the permadraw at the crux of face the music at check is about 50% worn down from people taking whipper at the crux. The bolt has pretty much cut half way down on the maillon making a perfect cut for the bolt to sit in.

woeisme
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by woeisme » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:07 am

The third bolt on Weak in July on The Crest is missing a hanger and nut. Although the climbing to the next complete bolt is easy there is decking potential if you slip before reaching it.

hevyduty
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by hevyduty » Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:09 pm

Hi Mr B i think your orientation is a bit out, when standing in front of One Foot In The Grave, Lone Rhino is to the right it`s a 2 bolt 5.11.The route was completely covered in moss, last week my young friend Eric rescrubbed it ,i then put new anchors on it, Its now good to go.I will check out the bolts on One Foot and the climb to the left, Last Moves .May i also say SAS can't fix theAnchors /Pro in the Bluffs Park ! the task seems to fall on local climbers. The route on the right is called Players Special! J S favourite smokes. Just to let you know all the routes left of Stumps at Neat & Cool are all being scrubbed reno`d . I removed quarter inch rivets and old hangers from Wasted Days / Nights its a stellar old climb, about another week and all the routes will be good to go, cheers Hevy

marc_leclerc
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by marc_leclerc » Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:21 am

The first pitch of 'Genius Loci' could use some work. The first and last bolts are missing hangers and the studs are damaged and won't accept new nuts, making the pitch a bit uninviting.

The studs are rusty and should all be replaced, with all the bolts in place the pitch is not too runout, and it's a very classic route! The bolts on pitches 2, 3 and 4 all appear to have been replaced already.

Jonny5
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by Jonny5 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:13 am

Anchors for Pacing The Cage and Sparky at Malamute are missing a hanger each.

Kyle
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by Kyle » Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:59 pm

The second to last bolt on Dreams of Passion at Ronins Corner needs replacing.

scrubber
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by scrubber » Tue Apr 14, 2015 6:23 am

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, but a loose or missing hanger, or a worn quicklink are the responsibility of all climbers. The SAS and other organizations have done a great job funding, or actually doing the rebolting of older routes with less than sufficient or outdated fixed protection.

Please try to make a habit of bringing a small kit with you when cragging to deal with these minor issues. Here's what I suggest:

- 1 or 2 hangers
- 2 nuts, stainless steel 3/8" coarse thread (NC). On spots where they commonly get loose like major direction changes, changing to Nyloc nuts can be helpful (Those are the ones with the little plastic ring pressed into the top.)
- 2 washers, stainless steel, 3/8"
- 1 quicklink, 5/16" or 3/8" QUALITY one with a real strength rating
- 1 small adjustable wrench (I found a little one with a 4" handle that just opens wide enough for a 9/16" nut, which is the size for a 3/8" bolt)

That setup lives in the bottom of my pack and weighs less than two quickdraws. Not only can you do a service to the local community by solving those little housekeeping issues at the crag, but you may also save yourself the inconvenience of a missing hanger on your intended route.

Now get off your computer and go climbing.

K

jammer
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by jammer » Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:52 pm

The second last bolt on Dreams of Passion (Ronins Corner) is damaged and dangling out of it's hole. It is in need of replacement for the climb to be safely (sanely) led.

jammer
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by jammer » Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:55 pm

I see that Kyle already beat me to the punch on this one... Right on - seems it's popular enough to catch some attention!

Jonny5
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by Jonny5 » Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:56 pm

@Scrubber NO offense taken. As someone who has been climbing less than 2 years I found your post informative and will heed your advice :)

DirtBagClimber
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by DirtBagClimber » Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:47 am

The first bolt of swan song is loose as well. The whole bolt wiggles a bit inside the rock if you pull it up and down but the nut or hanger are ok. Not much of a problem right now and not as bad as dream of passion but its a matter of time until it gets worst.

Thanks Oli.

npaolini
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by npaolini » Wed May 06, 2015 7:55 pm

The fifth bolt on dreams of passion (bluffs) is loose, but turning the nut just spins the bolt. I wasn't able to tighten it and it has about 1cm of play which makes it kind of scary (the route is run out enough already).

The anchors of Featureless Face (malamute) are incomplete. They were chains bolted directly to rock with no hangers but one of the chains is now missing.

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by gnarnaphobe » Fri May 15, 2015 6:50 am

New nylon webbing and a quick link have been added to the slung horn anchor at the top of The Right Side of the Yosemite Pinnacle. There are several generation of slung tat up there of varying quality that should be cut off but I didn't have any cutters with me.

Also on the T-wall rappel route the tat on the last anchor before the ground is looking rather weather and should likely be replaced before it fails.
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

quantum7
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by quantum7 » Sun May 31, 2015 2:45 pm

Hanging Gardens - anchor at top of p2 is just a single bolt and chain. the other bolt has come out

smallman
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Re: Mank Patrol

Post by smallman » Sun Jun 07, 2015 1:03 pm

I fixed the second anchor on Hanging Garden at the papoose June 06/2015 and cleaned the needles out of the cracks. It still may have a little residual dirt around but at least you can put gear in now.

Chris Small

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