Any good doctors out there?

[the kydd]

Hello all,

I'm looking for some advice on a good doctor. I hurt my finger about 2 months ago and am getting very limited recovery. I have a referral from a GP, but I am specifically looking for the name of a doctor in the Vancouver area (or Squamish) that perhaps has some climbing background or that has worked on climbers before.

I have had some poor experiences with physiotherapists that don't completely understand the biomechanics of climbing, so I want to save myself time and find a doctor that will hopefully understand the stresses put on the hands and fingers. Since I've already seen a GP I am more specifically looking for an orthopedic surgeon or a plastic surgeon (they treat hands).

The injury is to my middle finger, the proximal interphalangeal joint. The pain seems to be localized around the retinacular ligament and the palmar side of the fibrous digital sheath.

On a side note, lots of my research on climbing injuries mention the finger "pully", however this term does not appear in any of my anatomy text books, does anyone know the medical name for these?

Thanks for any suggestions and information that you may have! I appreciate it!

Jeff

[Axel]

I had the same injury to the same finger 12 years ago. I saw a very good hand specialist back in Ontario. There isn't a lot they are going to be able to do.

You say you are having limited recovery? It's been 2 months you say? This isn't what you want to hear but I took almost a year off before I was able to really climb again and even now it still bothers me. I've had to become choosier about what I get on and stay off the crimpy stuff.

2 months is nothing for that kind of injury. You're going to have to be patient and maybe not climb for awhile. Sorry I can't recommend a Doc in the area but I would bet you're finger that is what they'll tell you anyway. Good luck. Hope it heals faster and better than mine did.

[Steve Townshend]

Hey, i've had more climbing injuries than ANYBODY i've met! in m 12 yrs climbing i've taken over 6 off for injuries! So....

first off, Axel is 100% correct. 2 months off i don't even really consider "time-off".

What i do (and it took me YEARS to realize this) is this:

how ever long it takes for the injury to stop hurting, you take that time PLUS HALF. so if it takes 2 months before you don't feel the pain, you take at least 3 off! if it takes 6 to stop hurting, you take 9 off! THEN be careful when you start again.... use tape until it feels 120% (as good as the non-injured fingers).

when i can't remember which finger it is that i hurt, that's when i think it's better.

ok. now for your question about doctors.....

Go to MEC; go to the books section and buy the book called "One Move Too Many". it is all about climbing injuries and your injury IS in there! it's written by experienced doctors who are also hard-core climbers.

As for Hand Doctors with climbing Experience... Dr. McConky is an Ortho who lives in Vancouver... he's done alot of knee surgeries for alot of climbers and is probably the best guy in BC... although i don't think he does hands?

in Toronto, my friend Yasser El-Sheik is a Doctor... not many yrs experience as a Doctor yet (maybe 5 yrs?), but he SPECIALIZES in Hands... also, he's a 5.13 climber so he understands what's up with climbers.

First things First.... go to Co-Op and buy that book

Steve

"One Move Too Many" by Thomas Hocholzer and Volker Schoeffl

it was originally written in German; Scott Milton is friends with the Authors and he recommended to them to get it published in English too. they give seminars to doctors specifically about climbing injuries.

PS. Time heals all wounds.... so they say.....

[the kydd]

Axel and Steve,

Thanks for the replies!

I went out today and got the book. I had seen it before but forgotten about it. Thanks for the reminder.

At least with the start of the rain I won't have to stress too much about not being on the rock. Hopefully I'll be good to go come the spring.

Cheers!
Jeff

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[mdex]

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