Controversial Bugaboos Proposals
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Optimally-Primed
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Controversial Bugaboos Proposals
I know that this does not perfectly fit into the Squamish climbing section of this forum, but it very much does concern Squamish climbers.
Here is a letter I wrote to BC Parks:
Dear BC Parks Head Office,
I just returned from an enjoyable mountain climbing trip in Bugaboo Provincial Park. But I was saddened to learn about two proposals that Bugaboo Provincial Park is considering, both of which would have adverse effects on climbing and climbers. I learned about these proposals from a survey form that the hut custodian was asking climbers to fill out. I am writing today to ask you to not ratify these proposals, and to conserve the wild and inviting nature of the Park.
The two proposals in question are as follows.
1. Restricting access. The survey reports that 60 people per day visit the Bugaboos in high season, and implies that this is too much. A related question explained that the Park is considering capping user rates at current levels using some sort of registration or sign-up system. I disapprove of this proposal for three reasons. First, I do not agree that the park is over-used. Crowding is the exception (to be found in moderation on only the very most popular and easiest routes). During my recent visit in late July (high season), I experienced virtually no crowding. Second, limiting numbers has the effect of disadvantaging climbers that are trying harder and more committing climbing routes. To get on these types of routes, one is wise to wait for a good forecast (the weather in the Bugaboos is notoriously bad even in the summer) and leave on short notice. Should access be restricted, those that have the luxury of booking their trips long in advance are advantaged—-those that are trying the easy, standard routes that "go" in any weather. Third, putting a cap system in place contaminates the open and free social "climate" of the Bugaboos, and would render it hostile. This is what happened in Red Rocks (near Las Vegas, Nevada) and Yosemite National Park, California, where user restrictions created a context of "cops and robbers" between climbers and rangers. Heavy-handed, arbitrary restrictions contaminate such environments.
2. A Via Ferratta. About half of the climbing routes in the Bugaboos are accessed via snowslopes leading up to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Several accidents have occurred there (due to either rockfall or slips). To reduce future accidents, I understand that the park is considering installing an European Alp-style via ferratta, starting on Snowpatch spire and ascending the rock buttress to the left of the current standard approach. This is a preposterous idea! I take three issues with it: First, "dumbing down" the mountains with aims of eliminating danger is a misguided enterprise. Mountain climbing, by its very nature, entails risk, and always has. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col ascent involves the usual and expectable kind of danger encountered in the mountains. I've been up and down it in a variety of conditions, and always found the risks manageable. The climbing guidebook for the Bugaboos makes the dangers of the col perfectly clear. Those that choose to go to the col do so at their own risks. Making the Bugaboos into a "safe" tourist thoroughfare would be a grave mistake. Second, the proposed line makes no sense. It is twice as long as it needs to be and does little to reduce rockfall hazards. In fact, it crosses a chute that is likely more dangerous that the current route. Third, I understand that user fees in the Bugaboos are falling well short ($12 per user per day) of budget. The responsible thing to do seems to be to cut back spending rather than engaging in an unnecessary and excessively lavish project such as the Via Ferratta.
The Bugaboos are a world-class Alpine climbing destination. Alpinists from around the world as well as locals revere the Bugaboos for the exceptionally high quality rock, relaxed atmosphere, and untamed nature. I strongly urge you to protect these qualities by keeping access unrestricted to the Bugaboos and by canning the proposal for a Via Ferratta.
Sincerely,
Jeremy Frimer
Through the grapevine, my letter found its way to the individual responsible for the proposal, the head ranger at Bugaboo Provincial Park, Tay Hanson. He and I have since had a bit of an email dialog. Mr. Hanson is quite interested in feedback from those concerned about the Bugaboos. His email address is Tay.Hanson@gov.bc.ca. Please feel free to send your words of concern to the decision maker. —Jeremy
Here is a letter I wrote to BC Parks:
Dear BC Parks Head Office,
I just returned from an enjoyable mountain climbing trip in Bugaboo Provincial Park. But I was saddened to learn about two proposals that Bugaboo Provincial Park is considering, both of which would have adverse effects on climbing and climbers. I learned about these proposals from a survey form that the hut custodian was asking climbers to fill out. I am writing today to ask you to not ratify these proposals, and to conserve the wild and inviting nature of the Park.
The two proposals in question are as follows.
1. Restricting access. The survey reports that 60 people per day visit the Bugaboos in high season, and implies that this is too much. A related question explained that the Park is considering capping user rates at current levels using some sort of registration or sign-up system. I disapprove of this proposal for three reasons. First, I do not agree that the park is over-used. Crowding is the exception (to be found in moderation on only the very most popular and easiest routes). During my recent visit in late July (high season), I experienced virtually no crowding. Second, limiting numbers has the effect of disadvantaging climbers that are trying harder and more committing climbing routes. To get on these types of routes, one is wise to wait for a good forecast (the weather in the Bugaboos is notoriously bad even in the summer) and leave on short notice. Should access be restricted, those that have the luxury of booking their trips long in advance are advantaged—-those that are trying the easy, standard routes that "go" in any weather. Third, putting a cap system in place contaminates the open and free social "climate" of the Bugaboos, and would render it hostile. This is what happened in Red Rocks (near Las Vegas, Nevada) and Yosemite National Park, California, where user restrictions created a context of "cops and robbers" between climbers and rangers. Heavy-handed, arbitrary restrictions contaminate such environments.
2. A Via Ferratta. About half of the climbing routes in the Bugaboos are accessed via snowslopes leading up to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Several accidents have occurred there (due to either rockfall or slips). To reduce future accidents, I understand that the park is considering installing an European Alp-style via ferratta, starting on Snowpatch spire and ascending the rock buttress to the left of the current standard approach. This is a preposterous idea! I take three issues with it: First, "dumbing down" the mountains with aims of eliminating danger is a misguided enterprise. Mountain climbing, by its very nature, entails risk, and always has. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col ascent involves the usual and expectable kind of danger encountered in the mountains. I've been up and down it in a variety of conditions, and always found the risks manageable. The climbing guidebook for the Bugaboos makes the dangers of the col perfectly clear. Those that choose to go to the col do so at their own risks. Making the Bugaboos into a "safe" tourist thoroughfare would be a grave mistake. Second, the proposed line makes no sense. It is twice as long as it needs to be and does little to reduce rockfall hazards. In fact, it crosses a chute that is likely more dangerous that the current route. Third, I understand that user fees in the Bugaboos are falling well short ($12 per user per day) of budget. The responsible thing to do seems to be to cut back spending rather than engaging in an unnecessary and excessively lavish project such as the Via Ferratta.
The Bugaboos are a world-class Alpine climbing destination. Alpinists from around the world as well as locals revere the Bugaboos for the exceptionally high quality rock, relaxed atmosphere, and untamed nature. I strongly urge you to protect these qualities by keeping access unrestricted to the Bugaboos and by canning the proposal for a Via Ferratta.
Sincerely,
Jeremy Frimer
Through the grapevine, my letter found its way to the individual responsible for the proposal, the head ranger at Bugaboo Provincial Park, Tay Hanson. He and I have since had a bit of an email dialog. Mr. Hanson is quite interested in feedback from those concerned about the Bugaboos. His email address is Tay.Hanson@gov.bc.ca. Please feel free to send your words of concern to the decision maker. —Jeremy
For Vie Ferrate
I recently came back from Europe, where I did two vie ferrate for the first time. Although I prefer rock climbing 1000 times more than vie ferrate, I think that making vie ferrate in SOME areas in North America would be a plus.
Advantages of vie ferrate:
(1) They are accessible by more people than normal rock climbing, as you require less equipment/training/experience than with rock climbing.
(2) They are very accessible by large groups, which helps to alleviate crowding in rock climbing routes.
(3)They are faster and easier to ascend, so in case of bad weather you can escape or ascend faster.
(4) No belaying necessary, so you can concentrate on moving fast and in case of an accident it is easier to assist the person.
(5) They are really enjoyable and different to rock climbing.
Things against
(1) They change the shape of the mountain (eye sore). However, cleaning routes for rock climbing does change the mountain too.
(2) They are less "pure". But having a few would not hurt...
I would be against converting a consierable number of climbing areas to via ferrata areas, but for just a few, I'm for!
Advantages of vie ferrate:
(1) They are accessible by more people than normal rock climbing, as you require less equipment/training/experience than with rock climbing.
(2) They are very accessible by large groups, which helps to alleviate crowding in rock climbing routes.
(3)They are faster and easier to ascend, so in case of bad weather you can escape or ascend faster.
(4) No belaying necessary, so you can concentrate on moving fast and in case of an accident it is easier to assist the person.
(5) They are really enjoyable and different to rock climbing.
Things against
(1) They change the shape of the mountain (eye sore). However, cleaning routes for rock climbing does change the mountain too.
(2) They are less "pure". But having a few would not hurt...
I would be against converting a consierable number of climbing areas to via ferrata areas, but for just a few, I'm for!
Quote "I would be against converting a consierable number of climbing areas to via ferrata areas, but for just a few, I'm for!"
So where do you draw the line? This is a bad idea...it is a way to open an area that requires expertise to the weekend tourists who want to experience the mountains! It is like the folks in high heels (we know who) asking how to get to the top of the cheif.
So where do you draw the line? This is a bad idea...it is a way to open an area that requires expertise to the weekend tourists who want to experience the mountains! It is like the folks in high heels (we know who) asking how to get to the top of the cheif.
When in doubt....run it out!!!!
more thoughts
Hey,
the line is probably drawn by the expense. Making a via ferrata is neither cheap nor easy, so you can't make many of them easily. In Europe people enjoy them very much, and they don't interfere with rock climbers, as far as I know.
As for bringing inexperienced people to dangerous areas, I seriously doubt that just because you have a wire to hold on to, you will have "high-heeled" people going there. I did two in Europe, one in the Austria/Italy border, and another one in Grenoble, France. Only the Austria/Italy was far in the mountains, and I just saw one other person doing it. You still need special equipment to do it and basic training on how it works, so nobody in their right mind will go without it. As for crazy people, you don't need a wire on a mountain so that they get in trouble...
BTW, the via ferrata I did in Austria/Italy had anchors so you could rock climb it too if you did not want to use the wire, although rock climbers just went to other better places.
the line is probably drawn by the expense. Making a via ferrata is neither cheap nor easy, so you can't make many of them easily. In Europe people enjoy them very much, and they don't interfere with rock climbers, as far as I know.
As for bringing inexperienced people to dangerous areas, I seriously doubt that just because you have a wire to hold on to, you will have "high-heeled" people going there. I did two in Europe, one in the Austria/Italy border, and another one in Grenoble, France. Only the Austria/Italy was far in the mountains, and I just saw one other person doing it. You still need special equipment to do it and basic training on how it works, so nobody in their right mind will go without it. As for crazy people, you don't need a wire on a mountain so that they get in trouble...
BTW, the via ferrata I did in Austria/Italy had anchors so you could rock climb it too if you did not want to use the wire, although rock climbers just went to other better places.
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Optimally-Primed
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- Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am
The CASBC is aware of the proposals in the Bugaboos; the directors are currently discussing the issues before formulating a stance and publicizing it.
With regards to the Via Ferrata, I understand that they can be a lot of fun. I am all for the existing ones on Whistler/Blackcomb... and to future developments in appropriate locations. But I also understand that European via ferratas are usually installed on out-of-the-way, lower peaks, rather than on the big, beautiful centrepieces of an area (like Snowpatch). This Via Ferrata is short, threatened by rockfall, ends at a col (not a summit), and has a very long approach. I don't think that it's the sort of thing that would attract people who are interested in via ferratas just for the sake of via ferratas...
The intent of the via ferrata is simply to get people around the snowslope leading to the col. My opinion is that the snowslope is fine. I've been up and down it a few dozen times without incident, in both good conditions and bad conditions. A poignant equivalent of this proposal is to build a floating highway up Howe Sound to replace the Sea-to-Sky in lieu of the recent rockfall. Rockfall happens once in a while in the mountains. It's something that we simply have to accept.
One final thought: if the via ferrata were to have the effect of bringing more people, it would defeat its very purpose. The goal is to move people quickly through the area; crowding would slow the whole enterprise down.
Please be sure to write Mr. Hanson with your opinions, whether you agree with me or not. User input is essential to this process.
With regards to the Via Ferrata, I understand that they can be a lot of fun. I am all for the existing ones on Whistler/Blackcomb... and to future developments in appropriate locations. But I also understand that European via ferratas are usually installed on out-of-the-way, lower peaks, rather than on the big, beautiful centrepieces of an area (like Snowpatch). This Via Ferrata is short, threatened by rockfall, ends at a col (not a summit), and has a very long approach. I don't think that it's the sort of thing that would attract people who are interested in via ferratas just for the sake of via ferratas...
The intent of the via ferrata is simply to get people around the snowslope leading to the col. My opinion is that the snowslope is fine. I've been up and down it a few dozen times without incident, in both good conditions and bad conditions. A poignant equivalent of this proposal is to build a floating highway up Howe Sound to replace the Sea-to-Sky in lieu of the recent rockfall. Rockfall happens once in a while in the mountains. It's something that we simply have to accept.
One final thought: if the via ferrata were to have the effect of bringing more people, it would defeat its very purpose. The goal is to move people quickly through the area; crowding would slow the whole enterprise down.
Please be sure to write Mr. Hanson with your opinions, whether you agree with me or not. User input is essential to this process.
Re: Controversial Bugaboos Proposals
too many people?!!! jezus, there are many park places all across the province that get a kazillion people visiting in high season (anyone been up to garibaldi lately?) and yet no one seems concerned about those places... this worry about the bugs getting overrun seems a little misplaced...Optimally-Primed wrote:1. Restricting access. The survey reports that 60 people per day visit the Bugaboos in high season, and implies that this is too much. A related question explained that the Park is considering capping user rates at current levels using some sort of registration or sign-up system. [/i]
...although there is only ONE outhouse at applebee...
Against Bugaboo proposals
Hello All,
First of all, thank you very much to Jeremy for bringing these issues to the attention of the climbing community.
I've visited the bugs 6 or 7 times in high season (last time was late July, 2004) and never found it to be too crowded. I've been up (and down!) the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col in good and bad conditions and it is usually not a problem, but I remember that there are now bolted rap stations that can be used to descend the col in icy conditions (although they are more prone to rockfall than staying in the middle of the col would be).
I agree with all of the points that Jeremy raised and will contact Tay Hanson to express my concern that the bugaboos park remain as it is - a wilderness alpine area.
First of all, thank you very much to Jeremy for bringing these issues to the attention of the climbing community.
I've visited the bugs 6 or 7 times in high season (last time was late July, 2004) and never found it to be too crowded. I've been up (and down!) the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col in good and bad conditions and it is usually not a problem, but I remember that there are now bolted rap stations that can be used to descend the col in icy conditions (although they are more prone to rockfall than staying in the middle of the col would be).
I agree with all of the points that Jeremy raised and will contact Tay Hanson to express my concern that the bugaboos park remain as it is - a wilderness alpine area.
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Optimally-Primed
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- Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am
Those interested in expressing their views to BC Parks are encouraged to download the survey and send it to the Park. The address is included in the pdf download:
Download Bugaboos Survey
Download Bugaboos Survey
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