Wall of Attrition - Rap anchor replacement etiquette

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Goff: I'm New Here; Posts: 2; Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:35 pm; Location: Vancouver

Wall of Attrition - Rap anchor replacement etiquette

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Post by Goff » Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:46 pm

A partner and I had a go on Wall of Attrition yesterday. It's a tad dirty. I am think about giving it some TLC as the climbing was great and I bet it would get more traffic if it was clean. The rap stations were sketchy however. The one at the bottom of the 5th pitch was terrible, we avoided it on the rappel with a longer rappel to. I have never tried to replace anything in Squamish and am wondering what the "rules" are? Anybody know? I am happy to donate my time and money and put in new anchors and give it a scrub but was hoping for some advice on etiquette.

Oh yeah, if you are thinking about doing this route, take a long sleeve shirt/wind breaker even if it is roasting. It is out of the sun until 6pm and with the wind we got a bit chilly. Great option if you want to avoid the heat though.

EnigmaM: Junior Member; Posts: 40; Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:08 pm

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Post by EnigmaM » Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:53 pm

contact the first ascentionist for their permission (replacement of the anchors to fixe style ones shouldn't be an issue i would imagine).

you have any pictures from your recent outing? i'm curious to see the current state of the route.

Goff: I'm New Here; Posts: 2; Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:35 pm; Location: Vancouver

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Post by Goff » Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:38 pm

Sorry no pics. There was lots of lichen all over the route, some moss outside and in the cracks and a good amount of dirt in general. I should have worn safety glasses, I was getting dirt out of my eyes this morning still. There was also enough vegetation to be irritating and to start building up dirt. Some pruning would be nice.

Jason Kruk: I'm New Here; Posts: 8; Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:37 am

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Post by Jason Kruk » Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:37 pm

For retro-ing fixed anchor stations don't worry about approval from the FAs. In Squamish, it's regarded as a cool thing to do. Thanks for the effort.

J

Brendan: Posting Maniac; Posts: 714; Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm; Location: North Shore

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Post by Brendan » Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:49 pm

good luck w/ the new anchors!

i've been on Wall of Attrition twice (several years ago), and thought that it [could] be good, but wasn't climbed enough...

Dru: Senior Member; Posts: 396; Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:00 pm; Location: Chillidog

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Post by Dru » Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:22 am

I was up on this route about 10 yrs ago with Luc Mailloux and at that time one of the anchors at the top of the 4th pitch was a cammed bong piton behind a flake that you could lift out by hand...