Climbing Fatality

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
enchanted
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Post by enchanted » Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:20 am

I sure hope this isn't a troll. If it is, the person responsible should be ashamed of themselves, although I'm sure they're not because that would mean they had some sort of conscience. Have a little compassion and respect for the guy, his family and friends. The Squamish Chief's report of Vince's accident certainly didn't. I'm pretty disgusted. It upset many people.

paulc
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Post by paulc » Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:58 am

Hey Enchanted;

Do you have a link to the Chief's story? I checked the website and got bogged down in slow loading pages, so gave up.

Thanks

Paul

jacques
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Post by jacques » Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:17 pm

Brendan wrote:
jacques wrote:Sorry for my english, it will improve as my partner is from USA.
i'm not quite sure it will improve, Jacques... :oops:
If I write positilively, I say that we never know what is a good stopper or cam. We can only know what is a bad one. How can we know that? Certainly not in putting one or two cam in the rock and try it with a fall. I use to do aid climbing. I climb a 25 meters wall and at each placement I try to put at least three good pro...using the last one. In concrete terms, I put 75 five pro in four hours approximately each season before free climb. It's more than a lot of climber in the entire summer.

I know that there is still flying school in rock climbing. The evolution of the climber is like that: first you learn your technique, second you learn what is a bad pro in falling on each type of pro in top rope (to see how the pro move out the rock) as I described before. and third you learn how you push yourself from the rock to avoid injury.

In those courses, the climber use is own rope to make the fall and the teacher back up is rope with and other that he hold very slack from the top. For example, if you have a move to do and you can use a flag or a barn door technique, which one are you going to use? As your back can hurt the rock, the flag could be very dangerous. If the hole was at right and you flag inside with your left feet...a slip of your left hand will put you in danger. With the barn door technique, your chance of falling is higher, but the feet first. In my idea, it's better to have a broken leg than a broken vertebrae.

How a person can put his life in danger to master the fall by testing his pro by falling on it? Nobody is so stupid, except if someone else recommand to do so. In a same clift at a same place, depending of my humor, my pro can be very good if I'm not in good shape or I can place it to avoid that the other say that I don't place a pro to soon. My pro is not always good. And, sincerly, testing it is the last thing I want to do.

I hope that the english barrier will not affect your understanding of my good intension to bring more security in climbing

Climb safe

c-plus
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Post by c-plus » Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:41 pm

um... geez... troll? maybe. unintelligible, definately.

Anyways, it's terrible anytime someone dies while climbing. Is it just me, or has there been a spike in fatalities in the last 3 or 4 years? Anyone know the numbers? I seem to remember someone posting years ago how many deaths had occurred around squamish, and at the time the number seemed pretty low. More noobies pushing themselves too soon? old timers getting lax?

on the weekend i saw a guy on the news who got hit by a rock while rappelling on Mt Wells (i think that's the name; maybe wells peak, i dunno). Pretty sure he was wearing a helmet, but he still got injuried pretty severely. would've been a lot worse without the helmet though...

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:41 am

How about just more people climbing in general? Got to look at percentages for this sort of thing.

mcgarnickle
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Post by mcgarnickle » Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:24 pm

jacques wrote:
Brendan wrote:
jacques wrote:Sorry for my english, it will improve as my partner is from USA.
i'm not quite sure it will improve, Jacques... :oops:
If I write positilively, I say that we never know what is a good stopper or cam. We can only know what is a bad one. How can we know that? Certainly not in putting one or two cam in the rock and try it with a fall. I use to do aid climbing. I climb a 25 meters wall and at each placement I try to put at least three good pro...using the last one. In concrete terms, I put 75 five pro in four hours approximately each season before free climb. It's more than a lot of climber in the entire summer.

I know that there is still flying school in rock climbing. The evolution of the climber is like that: first you learn your technique, second you learn what is a bad pro in falling on each type of pro in top rope (to see how the pro move out the rock) as I described before. and third you learn how you push yourself from the rock to avoid injury.

In those courses, the climber use is own rope to make the fall and the teacher back up is rope with and other that he hold very slack from the top. For example, if you have a move to do and you can use a flag or a barn door technique, which one are you going to use? As your back can hurt the rock, the flag could be very dangerous. If the hole was at right and you flag inside with your left feet...a slip of your left hand will put you in danger. With the barn door technique, your chance of falling is higher, but the feet first. In my idea, it's better to have a broken leg than a broken vertebrae.

How a person can put his life in danger to master the fall by testing his pro by falling on it? Nobody is so stupid, except if someone else recommand to do so. In a same clift at a same place, depending of my humor, my pro can be very good if I'm not in good shape or I can place it to avoid that the other say that I don't place a pro to soon. My pro is not always good. And, sincerly, testing it is the last thing I want to do.

I hope that the english barrier will not affect your understanding of my good intension to bring more security in climbing

Climb safe
Hey Jack,

I am having a hard time understanding what it is you are trying to say. Feel free to say in french if you prefer, I understand that and your point will be clearer. Thanks!
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Steve J

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:09 pm

a troll?

lol. i get a kick out of one guys idea, and all others for following it.

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