New routes at Horne Lake... what are they?

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ras
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New routes at Horne Lake... what are they?

Post by ras » Tue May 13, 2008 8:21 pm

There's a second pitch above Born To Run at Boss Wall (fabulous route, btw, deserves its 3 stars). Anybody know what it is/if its finished? It looks crazy fun, but I don't want to get over a run-out roof, and find out it was never finished.

Also, Isa's Eyes looks like it is supposed to have another set of anchors to its right. Couldn't see them, but saw a route paralleling it to its right, and heading up a 45% chert band. Also saw a 2nd pitch appearing to go up from than anchors, and then to the right... maybe meeting up with the other route. Whats up there?

In general, is there any update to that photocopy everybody is carrying around from the 1999 climbing magazine?

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Post by Cloudraker » Wed May 14, 2008 11:48 am

Forum at Islandclimbing.com has some info:

http://islandclimbing.com/forums/8/topics/50

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Post by MCpl » Wed May 14, 2008 1:54 pm

I find it hard to believe that a website dedicated to climbing on Vancouver Island is promoting/advertising new route development at Horne Lake which is technically still closed. For a people whose local climbing area would be Horne Lake, they sure do not seem to be taking steps to ensure that the area can become re-opened without friction between climbers and lake property owners. I guess they figure they have enough climbing similar to Horne Lake that they don't need to worry about official closures.

An accomplished climber from the Island was telling me that some climbers took it upon themselves to go talk to the lake property owners regarding access afterwhich the owners told them that it is cool as long as there is no camping on the property, no campfires, and no irresponsible grabage disposal. Well what do think happened the following week? There were a dozen people camping at the base with campfires, garbage everywhere, a fire was built in the Amphitheather, and a guy was washing his underwear at the same spot from where some lake property owners get their drinking water.

If this sort of thing goes on, I garaun-f#$kin'-tee you that place will become offically closed, AGAIN! Promoting route development, or creating topos, or telling people that one can climb at Horne Lake without telling them all the issues are all things that are counterintuitive to the efforts of the Climbers Access Society of BC.

In my opinion, there seems to be a lot of stupid, narrow minded, self-centred climbers out there. I think is time to start smacking people upside their heads.

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Post by MGarcia » Fri May 16, 2008 5:40 pm

May I suggest that the locals keep an eye on their places before we foreigners do?

If they are OK with it (posting, bolting and all), then they see no threat with current strata releationships.

The guy from the romperroom, Jack (forgot his last name), they are doing an awesome job there, let them work out their area to their best interest. When they need help, I am sure they will ask for it.

There are good, strongly passionate people in the cave's organization that informally keep a good eye on the area.

Maybe we mainlanders could contribute with a few chains and biners for their awesome job out there.

Cheers.

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Post by bigwalldirtbag » Tue May 20, 2008 7:46 pm

MCpl wrote:I find it hard to believe that a website dedicated to climbing on Vancouver Island is promoting/advertising new route development at Horne Lake which is technically still closed. For a people whose local climbing area would be Horne Lake, they sure do not seem to be taking steps to ensure that the area can become re-opened without friction between climbers and lake property owners. I guess they figure they have enough climbing similar to Horne Lake that they don't need to worry about official closures.

An accomplished climber from the Island was telling me that some climbers took it upon themselves to go talk to the lake property owners regarding access afterwhich the owners told them that it is cool as long as there is no camping on the property, no campfires, and no irresponsible grabage disposal. Well what do think happened the following week? There were a dozen people camping at the base with campfires, garbage everywhere, a fire was built in the Amphitheather, and a guy was washing his underwear at the same spot from where some lake property owners get their drinking water.

If this sort of thing goes on, I garaun-f#$kin'-tee you that place will become offically closed, AGAIN! Promoting route development, or creating topos, or telling people that one can climb at Horne Lake without telling them all the issues are all things that are counterintuitive to the efforts of the Climbers Access Society of BC.

In my opinion, there seems to be a lot of stupid, narrow minded, self-centred climbers out there. I think is time to start smacking people upside their heads.
I totaly agree, any of these people mentioned above should be sent packing and if it takes a smack or two so be it!! as for promoting places like this, SHUT THE F#$K UP!!

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Horne Lake

Post by jack » Mon May 26, 2008 4:02 pm

I guess a bunch of citidiots have decided to comment on Horne Lake. Great now can you come over and clean the routes, put up new slings, replace worn biners and do some general clean up. My guess is that you will stay in Van go on this site and SPRAY about how great you are and how lame everyone else is.
I often find myself talking to cabin owners at the crag, they even give me beer somtimes, they enjoy the climbing and the scene. I agree that respect is key to maintaining this great place. We should clean up garbage, camp in the camp ground, don't piss in the water supply, etc.
It is discouraging to read that I should be sent packing and given the smack down for cleaning, re-slinging, and making routes for you and your friends. Go F#@k Yourself.

Jack

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Re: Horne Lake

Post by bigwalldirtbag » Mon May 26, 2008 4:31 pm

jack wrote:I guess a bunch of citidiots have decided to comment on Horne Lake. Great now can you come over and clean the routes, put up new slings, replace worn biners and do some general clean up. My guess is that you will stay in Van go on this site and SPRAY about how great you are and how lame everyone else is.
I often find myself talking to cabin owners at the crag, they even give me beer somtimes, they enjoy the climbing and the scene. I agree that respect is key to maintaining this great place. We should clean up garbage, camp in the camp ground, don't piss in the water supply, etc.
It is discouraging to read that I should be sent packing and given the smack down for cleaning, re-slinging, and making routes for you and your friends. Go F#@k Yourself.

Jack
you have got that wrong, your efforts in cleaning and reslinging ext. are well respected!!! don't think for a second i'm talking about you!! it's the other people that i'm talking about, the ones who don't respect the area, the ones who leave garbage and don't pay atention to access issues! limit the amount of people that show up there, by withholding info, thats all i'm saying.

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Post by MCpl » Tue May 27, 2008 11:43 am

So Jack, even in getting the wrong idea, has supported the whole point in a way. Imagine Jack, if someone pissed of the cabin owners so much through their irresponsible actions that the owners decided to block access to the crag permentantly. Then all the good work that you have done would have gone to waste. It is these people that ought to get the smack down, and I would think that you would want to lead the way because of all the effort you put in.

So, its one thing to put draws on routes, replace slings, and maintain the upkeep of the crag (which people from Vancouver have been doing too). But what I'm suggesting is that has to be expanded to also educating people who camp by the crag, litter, pollute the cabin owners drinking water, ect. By simply posting on a website .. here is a new route, come climb. Thius will cause irresponsible people to go to Horne (a sensitive area) and do things (that you mentioned is unacceptable) that will cause a closure.

So, thanks for your input, but get a grip of your emotions. We are on your side.

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Post by jack » Wed May 28, 2008 9:58 am

Yes I agree and I should apologize for mis interpreting your comments. It is funny that we would have to remind people to not litter, etc. Especially climbers. I often drink from that water supply myself, super tasty, minus the gonch taste.
In regards to the website (with the topo), I know the guy that runs the site (super cool guy), give him an email about your concerns. I imagine he did not realize the issue you raised as it has been pretty mellow at Horne for a few years. He is trying to do a good thing for new climbers and old by creating this site. Creating a community with the few climbers that exist on this island.

I think we as climbers should be more annoyed with the cabin strata. The land has been deemed unsafe to build under. However, they did not want to sell the land. Its useless to them but the want to keep it or sell it for way to much to the access society. Doesn't make a lot of sense.

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Post by MCpl » Wed May 28, 2008 12:22 pm

I don't think that that the land that the crag is on belongs to the cabin owners. From what has been explained to me by one of the owners... the land that the crag is on is claimed by First Nations/Aboriginal bands. It really isn't an issue of buying. That's why you may have noticed that there is cabins only along the lake, not on the other side of the road. The concern for the cabin owners is fires (obvious potential lost for them) and obnoxious campers.

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NO fires

Post by clc » Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:52 am

my brother does all the silvilculture work for the land owners around Horne lake, including the cuts above and below the climbing crag. Yes there a road that goes near the top. The land owners pay him, so I would guess they own the land. Incidentally they spend much more money than necessary for replanting. Private land has more slack rules for free to grow. He asked as a non-climber about people climbing the rocks. The people he talked to were, only very concerned about fires. So PLease DO NOT have fire up there, anywhere! They have very little water on high ground to fight the fires.

john

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Post by jack » Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:39 pm

If you do go up there please don't take the anchors or gear. I was super bummed when I got to the top of a climb (quarter century) and someone took the bomber anchor I just had put up a little while ago. Super lame not to mention expensive, I hope this does not become common place as it becomes more popular at Horne.

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Post by dakine » Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:42 am

Ohhh that sucks Jack... I ran into the same thing at a local crag in Squamish.
People that do that should have their fingers broken.

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Post by Brendan » Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:55 am

dakine wrote:People that do that should have their fingers broken.
hilarious.

finally a progressive(?) thinker :D

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Post by EnigmaM » Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:07 pm

jack congrats on you recent send of fast cat!

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