Closely bolted

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MCpl
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Closely bolted

Post by MCpl » Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:42 am

I'm going out on a limb and saying that some sport routes in Squamish are too closely bolted versus the bolting style like Smith. It takes a bit away from the exprience of leading with the potential for a big whipper.

I think its a bit of a loss for us. Any thoughts?

understilts
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Post by understilts » Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:23 am

skip 'em

Dooley
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Post by Dooley » Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:17 pm

Just because they are there doesnt mean that you need to use them.
But I see where you are coming from MCpl...if you learn sport here then head to Smith the head game could be a bit to deal with! That is the joy of climbing in different geographical regions! It is like learning trad here then heading to J Tree and getting schooled!!!
When in doubt....run it out!!!!

mcgarnickle
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Re: Closely bolted

Post by mcgarnickle » Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:25 pm

MCpl wrote:I'm going out on a limb and saying that some sport routes in Squamish are too closely bolted versus the bolting style like Smith. It takes a bit away from the exprience of leading with the potential for a big whipper.

I think its a bit of a loss for us. Any thoughts?

"it's too run out - waaa waaa"
"there's too many bolts - waaa waaa"

I guess no matter how you bolt it, someone is going to complain. But look at it objectively, at Smith, the walls are pretty clean and you can fall 20 feet no problem. But the walls in squamish are very featured with ledges, overhangs, corners, all sorts of stuff it would not be fun to wack into, so more bolts are definitely needed than at Smith rocks.

And as far as "taking away from the experience", if its hair-raising runouts you require, there's no shortage of trad lines to protect however you see fit, right?
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Steve J

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Post by bike » Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:16 am

Personally, when I have put up new routes, I have bolted for safety. So if a fall occurs it will not cause injury or at least try not too.

If someone feels the need to have a thrill, then skip as many bolts as you wish. :D

You can tell by my avatar how much I clip/bolt/drill! :wink:

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