Legit or not?

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
User avatar
Pete L.
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 7:59 am
Location: Langley

Legit or not?

Post by Pete L. » Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:09 am

Just came back from Vegas where I climbed with a guy who told me about a friend or a friend of a friend who'd flashed a ridiculously hard boulder problem. (newsworthy in it's difficulty)
However, he also mentioned that the dude's buddy, who had already done the problem, replicated the whole thing on his home gym so his buddy could train on it. After dialing it on plastic he went and sent the outdoor one.
So, is that really still a flash?

User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:14 pm

Still a flash. Although replicated.... it still is not the actual problem and the copy cannot account for every detail (ie fear, friction, wind, etc).

User avatar
bike
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 5:40 pm
Location: Vancouver

Post by bike » Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:48 pm

The true question here is!!??? How can you afford so much travel? I know how much you make! Got a little green room at home? :lol:

Brendan
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 714
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: North Shore

Post by Brendan » Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:47 pm

they should make up new verbiage for that... the Replicated Flash!!?
"i heard you sent that problem", "oh yea, i Replicate Flashed it." haha. :o

Axel
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 168
Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 9:35 pm

Post by Axel » Tue Nov 20, 2007 6:25 pm

If I work a problem for 2 years and then send it in front of a crowd naked, is that considered a "Flash"?

Seriously though the real question here is whether or not this climber is sponsored and stands to gain monetarily from this claimed "flash".

The second question is, is this climbers buddy a dude or dudette and is she hot and single.

Axel
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 168
Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 9:35 pm

Post by Axel » Tue Nov 20, 2007 6:27 pm

wind, etc).

Wind? Damn dude you need to gain some weight. LOL!

mcgarnickle
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 102
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 2:30 pm
Location: Coquitlam

Post by mcgarnickle » Tue Nov 20, 2007 7:01 pm

Its not a tumor. And anyway, how is it you are always on vacation - its totally unfair!
Μολὼν λάβε

Steve J

Brendan
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 714
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: North Shore

Post by Brendan » Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:11 pm

haha. too bad he's back in the gym tho.
yo steve, i heard ur sending some .13's in RR. good job!! :roll: :o

hafilax
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 73
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:56 pm
Location: East Van.

Post by hafilax » Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:26 am

That's pushing it. As I understand it a for a flash the climber can use all information available including inspecting holds and talking to other climbers but can't try any of the moves. Even simulated moves can train the muscle memory needed for technical moves.

How about counting the number of tries it took to wire it on plastic.

Brendan
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 714
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: North Shore

Post by Brendan » Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:59 am

so i gather this climber is an 8a.nu whore or something along those lines!? otherwise they wouldn't give a shat if they flashed it or just sent it after working it a bit.
practicing on plastic the exact climb and then sending it can not possibly count unless you seriously care about bragging to others about the flash... it's equivalent to telling your friends you're not a virgin when all you did was stick it in a blow up doll :lol:

User avatar
monkeyboy
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 243
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 9:46 pm

Post by monkeyboy » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:32 pm

I say it counts!..... The blow up doll thing, not the flash.

User avatar
Mike C.
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 10:29 am

Post by Mike C. » Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:02 am

Of course its still a flash, but that doesn't change the fact that the guy is a total wanker for employing such lame technique. People like that should tattoo "8a.nu" on their forehead so that we can distinguish them from the rest of the climber population.
And how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain. Remember when I took that home winemaking course, and I forgot how to drive? --Homer Simpson

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests