Looking for More Beta on Ultimate Everything

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fsg
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Looking for More Beta on Ultimate Everything

Post by fsg » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:27 pm

Hey all.
I'm looking for more beta on Ultimate Everything.
My partner and I haven't done it yet but hope to soon.
Specifically, I'm looking for info on Pitch 10- the last pitch.
On this site, it mentions there is a choice for Pitch 10, either a 5.10b or an 5.11b route. So far, so good.
However, it then also goes on to say that the 11b may also be a 5.9AO.
The sheet also goes on to say that "The crux moves on p.10 can be avoided by pulling on the bolts".
Could somebody elaborate on this?
Does it mean that if you're having trouble on the 11b at the crux that there are some bolts you can grab(?) to get thru the crux(and if you do that, it becomes a 5.9 pitch).
Anyway, we'd appreciate any info someone could provide on this.
Thanks all for your time on this.

L

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:52 pm

Yes. The 11 crux is protected with a bolt and one can clip into it pull up to the better holds higher up.

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Cloudraker
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Post by Cloudraker » Thu Jul 19, 2007 6:23 pm

If you don't climb 5.11 go for the 5.10 alternative....

XXXX
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Post by XXXX » Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:36 pm

If you dont climb 5.10 either, traverse left on a ledge for a pitch or so and then look for the 5.8 escape on the orginal line of Echelon

fsg
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Post by fsg » Fri Jul 20, 2007 9:54 pm

Perfect, thanks all.

L

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:54 am

fsg, do you do any alpine climbing? :oops:

gra
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Post by gra » Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:57 am

the aid pitch can be done easily if you attach slings to the bolts and step on them to reach the higher holds. is there a nut still close to the top? i lost my size 7 in the last crack...
although it's 5.9 it felt like a hard 5.9 to me, but just MHO.
safe climbing
gra

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