The Silent Menace 5.? -- VIDEO

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Steve Townshend
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The Silent Menace 5.? -- VIDEO

Post by Steve Townshend » Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:17 am

Death of the Silent Menace? or can it still be done? check out the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:47 am

Looking at the footage, I say (if possible) bolt the piece back on. If not, then it'll go as an aid start.

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Post by EnigmaM » Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:43 am

5.14a AO? ;) Borrow one of the plastic holds from around the corner.

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Post by JSmith » Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:58 am

Do not bolt it back on. This would be a further scar on the Squamish rock. I say, chip off the leftover glue and send it clean. There seems to be a way through. You can always do a A0 start off the bolt if you just want to do the later moves.

rich k
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Post by rich k » Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:29 pm

yup, J, i definitely agree with you.

do not bolt it back on. do not chip a new start. do not glue it back on. bolting it on is a poor choice of ethics.

in general, a route that is meant to be climbed is the route that is there after all the holds that can be pulled off are gone. if you can't climb a route in it's current form, leave it alone and get stronger climbing something else.

it's bad enough that every time i walk past atd with someone new to the area i have to explain that the mess of chipped holds and plastic bolted onto the wall was done years ago, at a time when people didn't know any better. i'm actually surprised that 'the person' who originally did it hasn't gone back and cleaned their mess up. 2 eyesores 50 ft from eachother would not be cool.

Trick
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Great Video

Post by Trick » Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:09 pm

Very cool the tape was running!
Those "eyesores" make for great drytooling training in the winter though!

rich k
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Post by rich k » Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:10 am

ya that's awesome that he got that on tape... and that he didn't hurt himself

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Post by Rock_Climber » Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:51 pm

Ok, I had seen that broken off and just had to speculate how it all went down. "I really hope the climber decided to stick clip that" I thought as I looked between the fresh patch of wall and the 20 foot drop. But, I didn't see any bloodstains so I assumed everything was hunky-dorey :D

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Post by rich k » Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:44 am

apparently the jump start has been done after the break, so it's only a matter of time before it gets sent......

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