10c variation after Perry's

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5.4 Slayer
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10c variation after Perry's

Post by 5.4 Slayer » Thu May 31, 2007 4:41 pm

Has anyone done the 10c variation pitch right after Perry's layback on the Grand Wall? Any problems figuring out where it goes?
And, how about the Roman Chimney's. My book says bring "some" 4" gear. Several pieces? A bunch?

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Post by Jason » Thu May 31, 2007 9:39 pm

which 10c after Perry's - the left, middle, or right? There are 3 lines and are all about 5.10.

As for the chimneys, you can miss out on the 4" piece if you can lieback like a champ, otherwise, one big cam will see you through.

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Post by MCpl » Thu May 31, 2007 10:22 pm

I think he is talking about the left-most pitch when facing the wall.

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Thu May 31, 2007 10:58 pm

Thanks for the info. I've been told the 10c pitch (left line - basically straight up from the anchors) is the best line to take right after Perry's.

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Post by Jason » Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:28 pm

You've been told wrong.

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:41 pm

Have you done the 10c variation Jason and, if so, what's up with it?

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Post by Jason » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:51 pm

I've done the left variation. It's very green and dirty, often the wettest option, and involves considerable flakey rock. Some people, myself included, feel these qualities detract from a pitch of climbing.

That being said, I'd recommend it - because really, why not?

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Post by Brendan » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:28 am

i still recommend the original .10a semi direct (right-hand) bolted variant. i haven't done the .10c on the left, so i can't vouch for that. but i have done the original corner on the right, and from what i can remember (it's been 6 yrs since i've done it), it wasn't that fun... probably cause it was wet! (thanks Andy C.) :D

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:42 pm

I was never impressed with the rightmost 5.9 var. but I did like the little 10b pitch after that. Didn't really care for the bolted 10a.

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