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Room Project become The Singularity
When I first came across it I thought it was such an amazing line, a clean granite wall maybe 15 feet high, overhanging by about thirty degrees with very faint slopy holds and rails leading to the top. This was when myself and Anne visited Squamish for the first time in summer of 2001 during a 9 month road trip. Although the conditions can be reasonable in squamish for bouldering that time of year, at the time it was too warm for me to climb it. I did try though, and the one thing I came away with from that trip was it was definitley possible.
3 years later I returned on yet another road trip, this time coming to Squamish at the end of August in the hope that conditions in September would be good. I'd heard from many people that this was the case but unluckily it turned out to be the wettest September in Squamish on record, and anybody who knows Squamish will know that's wet. We did have some good days and during those days I made progress. This time, even though I extended my stay in Squamish for two more weeks, I failed to get the conditions to climb it but left feeling confident I could.
Finally in 2007 I'm back and now living in here in Squamish having moved here in mid April. The room project has definitely been something I really wanted to get back on as soon as possible. I was pretty amazed it was still a project so decided I should focus on climbing it before I did anything else. At first it felt I was back to square one as I couldn't do the first move but then over a few more days I was back to my best previous efforts. Another session and I found some new beta which gave me the break though I needed. The climbing consists of the two hardest moves first, pulling off the ground using a small high right pinch to get a sloping left edge before the crux pull off this hold to gain a sloping diagonal rail. After which a few more slightly easier moves lead to a throw to a decent edge and it's basically done. The holds are very poor and it requires quite a bit of body tension to remain on the rock.
A few days ago accompanied my my friend Jack Fieldhouse, a climber responsible for developing a large percentage of the Squamish bouldering, I was back in the late evening in good cool conditions. Amazingly I put it together on my first try, every move went perfectly which for me it has to do. Each hold has to be taken exactly right with no margin for error and every foot placement precise otherwise I fail. I think this is why it's such a special problem for me, as it's very technical as well as powerful. I can't throw myself at it, there is no way I could get through all but the very last hard move if my feet cut, it feels like if you try too hard then it doesn't work. To be the first person to unlock this problem felt great, as to how hard I don't know - maybe v14 but it's so hard to grade things. All I know it's the best problem I've done, great moves, perfect rock and the only way up the face of the boulder
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