Bugaboos mid-June?

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tobyfk
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Bugaboos mid-June?

Post by tobyfk » Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:44 pm

Going to be in BC for a couple of weeks in mid-June, with a climbing partner with worryingly-growing mountaineering tendencies. Whilst I'd be happy to spend the time in Squish, exploring the new Walmart and perhaps occasionally dogging on Fingus Cling, he talks of a possible side-trip to the Bugaboos ... Has anyone been there that early in the season and, if so, is there any likelihood we'll get anything done?
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Axel
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Post by Axel » Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:54 am

I get the impression you already know the answer to that question. If you go for the entire month of June you'll probably get something in. :lol:
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XXXX
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Post by XXXX » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:07 am

are you going to climb snow, or rock?

cause in june a lot of the rock still has snow on it, especially in early june
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tobyfk
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Post by tobyfk » Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:54 am

XXXX wrote:are you going to climb snow, or rock?
only interested in rock routes, but wouldn't consider a trip up there to take a look around - and maybe do something short and/or easy - a waste of time.
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tobyfk
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Post by tobyfk » Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:56 am

Axel wrote:I get the impression you already know the answer to that question.
No, genuinely clueless. Whilst googling on the topic I noticed some guides offer to guide some Bugs routes in June, so extrapolated that there may be OK conditions from time to time?
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:17 pm

I've climbed in the Bugaboos in Mid June. No problems, in fact the aproaches are much better becasue you've not down to the glacier ice. Stick to the south facing walls, or Cresent tower.

Of course, things are different every year, and this has been a heavy snow year. If I were you, I'd check out the Valhallas. Mid June is a great time to climb up there. You'll find topos on Rockclimbing.com
WTF?
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tobyfk
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Post by tobyfk » Tue Apr 17, 2007 6:47 pm

Are the Valhalla routes at lower altitude? What are the classic routes there?
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:51 pm

thesiger wrote:Are the Valhalla routes at lower altitude? What are the classic routes there?
They're at a lower altitude.
The hike in will take you 3 hours.
No glaciers.
The classic route is The South Ridge of Gimli 5.9 III. The route and aproach faces south. Nice camping spot right at the base.
Image
WTF?
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tobyfk
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Post by tobyfk » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:25 am

Thanks. What's the rock like ... it's some kind of gneiss, right? Reasonably solid?
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