GPA for GWall

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
ryan_boarder
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GPA for GWall

Post by ryan_boarder » Mon Apr 02, 2007 5:13 pm

In the Squamish Select it says "The Grand Wall is a must do for those with the necessary prerequisites." Any idea's what some good grovel prevention climbs are? Style counts you know.
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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:46 pm

What's "Grovel Prevention?"

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5.4 Slayer
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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:57 pm

Come on Mcpl, he wants single pitch routes similar to the routes on the Grand Wall so he can practice in peace rather than scratching. flailing and jugging his a$$ up 1500 feet. He like to clean up his act so he can do the route with some kinda style, much unlike my first few attempts. :shock:

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Post by gearheart » Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:57 am

Warning: These comparisons are extremely rough, hopefully they help.
Climb & Punishment has a crux that is similar in feel and grade to the lower sword crux, and the top of A Little Testis, being 10a/b steep hands, is similar crack size to parts of the Split Pillar, although significantly shorter.
Look for steep hands generally as preparation for the Split and steep off-finger laybacking for the upper sword crux. Apron Strings is probably not that far off as preparation for the upper Sword, although not as steep.
I have no idea how you prepare for laybacking a wide crack like Perry's except to remember that you will thankfully be clipping bolts. The undercling on the sail flake is also not a feature I can think of finding in the bluffs or Murrin (and near the grade).
Todd

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Post by ryan_boarder » Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:58 pm

Thanks for reply gearheart. Will give those a try.
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Post by t-bone » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:28 am

good question....yes, style certainly does count.
Here are my suggestions:
-get VERY strong at laybacking. The top of the Sword and Perry's both need layback strength and it also comes in handy when the Pillar widens to 5".
-practice your steep jamming technique. If you are comfortable with foot jams you can get good rests in the Pillar. Unfortunately there are not many pitches like this, some rough suggestions would be (Seasoned in the Sun and maybe Partners in Crime)

Make sure you feel you are strong enough before you go for the onsight (don't 2nd the Pillar first). You only get one chance to make an onsight attempt.....

Good luck

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Post by ryan_boarder » Fri May 11, 2007 9:53 am

Does Grand wall dry pretty much a day after rain?
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Post by Brendan » Fri May 11, 2007 5:52 pm

it usually dries fairly quickly, although the traverse from merci me to the base of the pillar tends to seep for most of the year! climb it via cruel shoes, it's WAY better. and the flats is usually one of the last areas to dry.

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Post by ryan_boarder » Sun May 13, 2007 12:56 pm

Hey. 'Squamish Select' says top pitch of Rutabaga is 11b in two places: in the index and in the description of the climb. But the title in Select and in Kevin McLane's book says Rutabaga is 11a. I also noticed a lot of other grades in the McLane guide book have been upgraded from 10d to 11a in the Select.

While this is a somewhat minor difference, what is the concensus on the grade for top pitch of Rutabaga?
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Post by Brendan » Sun May 13, 2007 7:31 pm

10+ :wink:
and marginally thin near the top!!

quite a few grades have changed from the Climbers Guide to Squamish to Squamish Select, but i don't think many people pay too much attention to these things anyways... when in doubt, refer to the former.

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Post by paulc » Mon May 14, 2007 3:33 pm

Yeah, laybacks are the way to prepare.

Suggest:
Brunser Overhang (kinda like the end of Perrys, feet similar to sail flake)
Frail Scales (kinda like the sword)
I'd suggest Milkrun as a good layback that will get your feet in the right mood for much of the laybacks on the Grand, plus you get to practice rope management, with many fewer people. The approach pitches suck, but the two main dihedral pitches are great.

HTH

Paul

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Post by erock » Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:00 pm

Yo ryan. Did you have a chance to climb the suggested routes and have a go at the grand? Would love to know what you think of the comparisons as i'm in the same boat.

Thanks

e

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Post by ryan_boarder » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:49 am

Hey Erock.
To prepare I did: A little Testis, which was similar to the pillar but short and facing the wrong way. Also do Climb and Punishment for a similar sword crux. Apron Strings was good training for pump management.
However, the training I think helped me most was; for a couple weeks before hand, after I was done my climbing session at the gym I'd go up and down this juggy steep 10d until I couldn't hold on anymore. This will get you ready for pumpy endurance climbing (the pillar and perry's).
For me the crux was the pillar, the sword seems easy for 11a with good rests, the pillar was the spot where, if anywhere, I wanted to give up and puke.
On that note though, I got the onsight :) Or rather, with all the preparation and beta the redpoint?
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Post by MCpl » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:49 am

The Sword is 11a? I was told 10c.... duped again.

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Post by ryan_boarder » Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:39 am

11a onsight grade :wink:
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