Climb & Punishment has a crux that is similar in feel and grade to the lower sword crux, and the top of A Little Testis, being 10a/b steep hands, is similar crack size to parts of the Split Pillar, although significantly shorter.
Look for steep hands generally as preparation for the Split and steep off-finger laybacking for the upper sword crux. Apron Strings is probably not that far off as preparation for the upper Sword, although not as steep.
I have no idea how you prepare for laybacking a wide crack like Perry's except to remember that you will thankfully be clipping bolts. The undercling on the sail flake is also not a feature I can think of finding in the bluffs or Murrin (and near the grade).
Here are my suggestions:
-get VERY strong at laybacking. The top of the Sword and Perry's both need layback strength and it also comes in handy when the Pillar widens to 5".
-practice your steep jamming technique. If you are comfortable with foot jams you can get good rests in the Pillar. Unfortunately there are not many pitches like this, some rough suggestions would be (Seasoned in the Sun and maybe Partners in Crime)
Make sure you feel you are strong enough before you go for the onsight (don't 2nd the Pillar first). You only get one chance to make an onsight attempt.....
While this is a somewhat minor difference, what is the concensus on the grade for top pitch of Rutabaga?
Brunser Overhang (kinda like the end of Perrys, feet similar to sail flake)
Frail Scales (kinda like the sword)
I'd suggest Milkrun as a good layback that will get your feet in the right mood for much of the laybacks on the Grand, plus you get to practice rope management, with many fewer people. The approach pitches suck, but the two main dihedral pitches are great.
To prepare I did: A little Testis, which was similar to the pillar but short and facing the wrong way. Also do Climb and Punishment for a similar sword crux. Apron Strings was good training for pump management.
However, the training I think helped me most was; for a couple weeks before hand, after I was done my climbing session at the gym I'd go up and down this juggy steep 10d until I couldn't hold on anymore. This will get you ready for pumpy endurance climbing (the pillar and perry's).
For me the crux was the pillar, the sword seems easy for 11a with good rests, the pillar was the spot where, if anywhere, I wanted to give up and puke.
On that note though, I got the onsight Or rather, with all the preparation and beta the redpoint?
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