FYI: Bad Bolt on Lower Apron

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JasonMLawson
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FYI: Bad Bolt on Lower Apron

Post by JasonMLawson » Mon Aug 07, 2006 6:08 am

Just wanted to let everyone know that the right bolt, on the first set on anchors on "Crystal Burst" .10b on the lower apron, is bad and can be pulled straight out. if you try and tighten the nut the whole bolt spins.
it is ok as long as it doesn't get outward pull (i used it), but being it is such a low angle slab outward pull is fairly easy. i would replace it but it is, unfortunatley, going to be a while until i am back in Squamish.
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Brendan
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Re: FYI: Bad Bolt on Lower Apron

Post by Brendan » Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:53 am

JasonMLawson wrote:...but being it is such a low angle slab outward pull is fairly easy...
wouldn't it be easier to pull a bolt out of a vertical wall as opposed to a slab??

:D
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JasonMLawson
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Post by JasonMLawson » Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:59 am

yes it would, but...its so low angle that when you set up the belay you are standing up on the slab which creates the outward pull on the bolt. i just made my anchor long and kept my weight low on the bolts, it was safe just kind of an awkward stance.
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