Squaw multi pitch routes...
Squaw multi pitch routes...
has anyone been on:
-Flight Simulator
-Straight Outta Squampton, or
-Dog Wall??
i'm particularly interested in the former two, but info on any is appreciated!
cheers
-Flight Simulator
-Straight Outta Squampton, or
-Dog Wall??
i'm particularly interested in the former two, but info on any is appreciated!
cheers
j/k...
-
Squamishmonkey
- Junior Member
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 3:47 pm
- Location: Squamish
Dog Wall
Brendan
This should help you...I'll start with Dog Wall as Flight simulator is straight up finger crack with bolted belays.
Rack...Standard squamish rack..double up from Yellow Alien upto number 1 BD, the .75 was used alot and have at least one small cam C3 or 00tcu. biggest piece need is a 3. One rope (?) We did but the weather was 100% chance of being perfect.
Approach is easy...Upto the Squaw and go left...stay along wall until you see the 5.11a finger crack, there are 3 routes here not two as the guide says, the middle one is a fully bolted line(project), the left one is 5.10a and a hidden corner leading onto an arete (one bolt) and then pull up cracks to the ledge. Bolted belay. The 5.11a links into the same ledge at the right end of the ledge.
Pitch two is 5,11a A0 2pa...there are 5 bolts on the pitch, which 2 are for aid is not entirely clear but the last one is a high step in a sling to a left running horizontal (yellow alien). The start is also hard to get into a crack so my guess is the first and last bolts are aid, the rest is free.
(This pitch will go free maybe 12+)
Pitch three...combine with pitch two...you still have all the gear on you as the aid pitch is almost all bolts. Bolted belay. 45m
Pitch Four, 5.11b, and is the 1st crux. Pull up 10m to a ledge with two vertical cracks, use the left one to pull the move, which is a very high step however the right one takes gear easier from the ledge...make sure you belayer is paying attention or you will hit it. Then straight up finger cracks....Small walk to next pitch...cool looking overhanging wall above you.
Pitch 5, 5.11b, 2nd Crux, two pitons, then bolts, full stemming and pinching with the right hand as you go rightwards along a ledge. Hidden hold on the right...Bolted belay, and the 2nd half of the pitch is dirty.
Pitch 6, 5.10b (???) Maybe but it is covered in Lichen and dirty. Traverse left with bolts and gear. Fall potential is the same for both leader and seconder. Then take 2nd crack upwards to the tree on the ledge....it needs sone gardening.
Pitch 7, 5.11a, Go left along ledge and up two buldges to perfect triple cracks...best pitch on route. Head past huge horn and set up a gear/tree belay.
Pitch 8, 5.10a, Follow cracks on arete to a small fir below a roof, go right around roof then step left and straight up low angle rock to a bolted belay with chains.
Walk off following the flagging tape to join the Squaw trail or rap the route. This is possible but then you need two ropes and the walk is quicker.
The route is good but needs some traffic. The rock is quality but is heavily crystalised and they crumble under foot sometimes. The route will disappear if not climbed more often. The route has some dirty patches and an adventerous feel to it. I'm guessing it is called Dog wall as you can hear all the Valleycliffe dogs all day.
I have sprayed enough beta now...the rest is easy enough to work out.
Hope that helps...let the viewers know how it goes.
This should help you...I'll start with Dog Wall as Flight simulator is straight up finger crack with bolted belays.
Rack...Standard squamish rack..double up from Yellow Alien upto number 1 BD, the .75 was used alot and have at least one small cam C3 or 00tcu. biggest piece need is a 3. One rope (?) We did but the weather was 100% chance of being perfect.
Approach is easy...Upto the Squaw and go left...stay along wall until you see the 5.11a finger crack, there are 3 routes here not two as the guide says, the middle one is a fully bolted line(project), the left one is 5.10a and a hidden corner leading onto an arete (one bolt) and then pull up cracks to the ledge. Bolted belay. The 5.11a links into the same ledge at the right end of the ledge.
Pitch two is 5,11a A0 2pa...there are 5 bolts on the pitch, which 2 are for aid is not entirely clear but the last one is a high step in a sling to a left running horizontal (yellow alien). The start is also hard to get into a crack so my guess is the first and last bolts are aid, the rest is free.
(This pitch will go free maybe 12+)
Pitch three...combine with pitch two...you still have all the gear on you as the aid pitch is almost all bolts. Bolted belay. 45m
Pitch Four, 5.11b, and is the 1st crux. Pull up 10m to a ledge with two vertical cracks, use the left one to pull the move, which is a very high step however the right one takes gear easier from the ledge...make sure you belayer is paying attention or you will hit it. Then straight up finger cracks....Small walk to next pitch...cool looking overhanging wall above you.
Pitch 5, 5.11b, 2nd Crux, two pitons, then bolts, full stemming and pinching with the right hand as you go rightwards along a ledge. Hidden hold on the right...Bolted belay, and the 2nd half of the pitch is dirty.
Pitch 6, 5.10b (???) Maybe but it is covered in Lichen and dirty. Traverse left with bolts and gear. Fall potential is the same for both leader and seconder. Then take 2nd crack upwards to the tree on the ledge....it needs sone gardening.
Pitch 7, 5.11a, Go left along ledge and up two buldges to perfect triple cracks...best pitch on route. Head past huge horn and set up a gear/tree belay.
Pitch 8, 5.10a, Follow cracks on arete to a small fir below a roof, go right around roof then step left and straight up low angle rock to a bolted belay with chains.
Walk off following the flagging tape to join the Squaw trail or rap the route. This is possible but then you need two ropes and the walk is quicker.
The route is good but needs some traffic. The rock is quality but is heavily crystalised and they crumble under foot sometimes. The route will disappear if not climbed more often. The route has some dirty patches and an adventerous feel to it. I'm guessing it is called Dog wall as you can hear all the Valleycliffe dogs all day.
I have sprayed enough beta now...the rest is easy enough to work out.
Hope that helps...let the viewers know how it goes.
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