"USHBA" failure - ground fall

[rolfr]

Bruce how old was the rope? New? Recently there was another accident in Skaha due to multiple causes. The belayer tripped while lowering the leader on an ATC, the new rope slide through the device before she could regain control resulting in a ground fall.
A day before the accident I had spoken with the local SAR about problems with their newly replaced ropes, which did not hold a prussic. The prussic cord was the same one use effectively on older ropes.

I wonder if new dry coatings or the change in the mantle weave to comply with new regulations for ropes over sharp edges is part of the cause of recent accidents?

[BK]

Rolf, it was a totally normal, middle of life span kernmantle rope. Diameter might have contributed, but my dryland tests indicated little difference between the 9 mm and a 10.2 mm.

I have since heard of one very similar event, a "weak" spring was noted yet it "tested" ok so it was used, then it failed similar to me yet eventually activated and grabbed the rope, arresting the fall.
No idea what rope condition or diameter was involved.

[JMB]

While I have not had an Ushba-type rope grab fail on me, Grand Wall (then Brasovia) DID replace mine for free when I noticed that the lever was becoming a bit sticky and emailed to ask for cleaning advice. Their response was to simply exchange the old device for a new one.

I have also noticed the Mini Traxion's tendency to lock in the 'open' position while climbing, which once resulted in an 8 foot free fall onto a backup knot and a sprained ankle. I no longer use either as a solo device.

Generally speaking, most TR solo systems in use by recreational climbers today are susceptible to chopping/cutting the rope at low forces, failing when grabbed by a falling climber, or both. There is also a propensity for climbers to use a single rope/single device system, amplifying the consequences of a single point of failure.

I would prefer to see more TR solo climbers using redundant systems and different devices. One acceptable replacement eliminates the grabbing problem and comes from the industrial world: the Petzl ASAP. Definitely worth it.

[BK]

Thanks for the ASAP heads up.

Something of interest came up. A local retailer mentioned that the manufacturer of the Grandwall Ucender ( aluminum Ushba knock off used so commonly) started installing a "stronger" spring about 2 years ago.

It is concievable that the earlier models were installed with a "weak " spring, which may have been my unit for all I know. I brought all this to the attention of the manufacturer and to be blunt, they really don't want to talk about it. I reccomended that if they had any sense of risk management in regard to legal liability, they should consider

A RECALL OF ALL EARLIER MODELS POSSESSING A WEAK SPRING.

But like I said, they didn't seem to have any burning fascination for the details of either my own or other failure events involving their product. Perhaps they have never heard of the Ford Pinto, or maybe they have and the letter was written by a B grade lawyer.... it certainly appeared to be!


Either way, considering we ( their customers) are operating in an information vacume regarding this issue of "weak springs", I suggest that owners of Grandwall alluminum "Ushbas" test their units directly against a new unit in store. If the spring is at all weaker take it up with the manufacturer for replacement. Even if they didn't before, they are now fully aware of how their customers are using their product and that that usage may involve previous production models.

This has been a public safety announcement

[WhippersAndTears]

I heard from someone in Skaha that you 'broke both your legs.' I am glad to hear that was not true!

I've used a Ushba for five years - first the old Russian model, then the new Brasovia. I've fallen on them hundreds of times. The old Russian model began dropping me a little farther each time, but never to the deck. I stopped using it and switched to the Brasovia, and had no problems whatsoever. I've looked at the thing and I just can't see how it could fail, but obviously it did in your case, and in another case I've heard about recently as well.

For me, it's time to start using two devices or no devices ..