U-Wall Aid Beta?

[PAW]

leave all the sh*t behind and just focus on climbing continuously. If you back clean a bunch of the first pieces on pitch 1 you can link all the way to the third anchor in one pitch although I would short fix at the 2 other belays that you go past just cause.

I climbed it with a newer partner last week in 15hours CTC and we were not moving all that fast. I just short fixed 5 of the pitches together. The upper pitches are almost all fixed and go by really quick. We brought a small haul bag and hauled which I wouldn’t recommend I would just jug with a pack next time that way you can just walk off versus rapping Uncle Bens.

[WhiskeyKid]

Yeah well, I did it in a day with a partner years ago (albeit a long day), but I wanted to do it solo more as practice than anything else. After my first attempt, where I was trying to go fast and light (and got lost on that hook move ) I thought it'd be a good opportunity to practice hauling and bivying solo on something I had been on a couple times. And when I'm on my own I kinda like taking my time and enjoying it, hanging out in the ledge in the morning drinking luke warm coffee out of a thermos. I'm not local there anymore, so it's all part of the trip experience y'know? After having reflected on it the last couple weeks though, I don't know if I'm going to get on it again anytime soon. The first couple pitches just seem like such a wrestling match in that corner, and when I get off I feel like I've run the gauntlet. Maybe next time I'm in town looking to solo something I'll hop on Uncle Ben's, I remember it being less obvious, but less strenuous as well.

[PAW]

its all about adjustable daisies. It makes it like hang dogging a sport route everytime you need to get higher you pull donw on the daisy and it lifts your phat a$% up.

It is the key to overhanging aid.

Easiest solo for logistics is wrist twister, merci me can be a b%$ch by yourself.

[WhiskeyKid]

Amen to that. I love my adjustable daisies. Have you used the Yates ones? I have the metolius type and it sometimes bugs me that you can't extend them unless you have a few inches of slack in the line, in order to flip the buckle up. Anyhow, they're getting somewhat ratty and was thinking about replacing them. The Yates look a little beefier...

[PAW]

yes Ive got the Yates. Ive used both and there is no comparison. Ive been using 2 adjustable yates and one extra long reg daisy with a fifi. It sounds like a cluster but it doesnt seem to bug me more then benefit.

Example of the benefits. When using a cheat stick I just take the 3rd daisy off my harness and use it to make the length up to gain the next piece.

Also the Yates big wall gear harness is as good as it gets.

[c-plus]

its all about adjustable daisies.

It is the key to overhanging aid.

so true.. so true...

[JohnPleasant]

University wall? Did they allow it? Even if they do, make sure that the concrete wall is strong enough to aid climbers.