Legit or not?
Legit or not?
Just came back from Vegas where I climbed with a guy who told me about a friend or a friend of a friend who'd flashed a ridiculously hard boulder problem. (newsworthy in it's difficulty)
However, he also mentioned that the dude's buddy, who had already done the problem, replicated the whole thing on his home gym so his buddy could train on it. After dialing it on plastic he went and sent the outdoor one.
So, is that really still a flash?
However, he also mentioned that the dude's buddy, who had already done the problem, replicated the whole thing on his home gym so his buddy could train on it. After dialing it on plastic he went and sent the outdoor one.
So, is that really still a flash?
If I work a problem for 2 years and then send it in front of a crowd naked, is that considered a "Flash"?
Seriously though the real question here is whether or not this climber is sponsored and stands to gain monetarily from this claimed "flash".
The second question is, is this climbers buddy a dude or dudette and is she hot and single.
Seriously though the real question here is whether or not this climber is sponsored and stands to gain monetarily from this claimed "flash".
The second question is, is this climbers buddy a dude or dudette and is she hot and single.
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That's pushing it. As I understand it a for a flash the climber can use all information available including inspecting holds and talking to other climbers but can't try any of the moves. Even simulated moves can train the muscle memory needed for technical moves.
How about counting the number of tries it took to wire it on plastic.
How about counting the number of tries it took to wire it on plastic.
so i gather this climber is an 8a.nu whore or something along those lines!? otherwise they wouldn't give a shat if they flashed it or just sent it after working it a bit.
practicing on plastic the exact climb and then sending it can not possibly count unless you seriously care about bragging to others about the flash... it's equivalent to telling your friends you're not a virgin when all you did was stick it in a blow up doll
practicing on plastic the exact climb and then sending it can not possibly count unless you seriously care about bragging to others about the flash... it's equivalent to telling your friends you're not a virgin when all you did was stick it in a blow up doll
Of course its still a flash, but that doesn't change the fact that the guy is a total wanker for employing such lame technique. People like that should tattoo "8a.nu" on their forehead so that we can distinguish them from the rest of the climber population.
And how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain. Remember when I took that home winemaking course, and I forgot how to drive? --Homer Simpson
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