Crown Mtn: Widowmakers arete

[tattooed_climber]

anyone ever climb it

10-12 pitches of 5.9, its in the alpine select

i'm curious about gear, if there's any bolts up there (rap or at belays), descent....give me all the skinny

[paulc]

Hey,

never climbed it, but Geoff has, check

www.climbingwalls.net

There is a TR from a year or two ago. Funny enough I'm thinking of doing Widowmaker myself. If you get there first post up here and let me know how it went I will do likewise (probably get up there in a couple of weeks or so)

Paul

Ps anyone know what the glacier situation is on Slesse? Have they both 'lanched?

[tattooed_climber]

sure, i'll post up this this thread or something, but i'll be hopefully doing it in a week or so too....the dude i'll be climbing it with is just waiting for his work to slow down...(richmond casino)

[gearheart]

Climbed that route a few years ago - the only time to hike the Grouse Grind is at 5 or 6am to go do that route. I recall some routefiding issues gaining the ridge at the very bottom, but no big deal. No bolts that I recall - although I don't recall what kind of anchor we rapped off from the top of the Camel. Standard rack was sufficient, anchors were easy to find/build. Pleasant walk back down, but ensure you plan your day to get back to ride the gondola down!

[tattooed_climber]

i'm hitting crownie mountie this sunday....i'll post a TR and pics by monday

[thebigchin]

i'm hitting crownie mountie this sunday....i'll post a TR and pics by monday

How was the rain? I'm assuming that you didn't actually climb it on Sunday, although in hindsight, it probably wouldn't have been bad by the time you got to the actual climbing part.

As I was sitting inside repairing gear that had been falling apart over the last few months I was thinking how happy I was that I didn't commit to an alpine route this weekend. Mtn biking at Whistler was wicked yesterday, tho.

[tattooed_climber]

OK....frist of all, sunday was crap, me and my partner met in the parking lot with thunder, so we rearanged for monday....

we did the grind, then off to crownie....we did most of the route, but we came to the 2nd to last pitch, and we bailed off (it looked HAIRY, my partner did it before but he was confused and didn't remember it) latter he told me that he remembered why he couldn't (there was snow on it)i called him a bastard ...the bail was shitty because theres EXTREMELY loose choss everyewhere...

OK, i have to run off to volunteer...i'll be making a TR on rc.com and then be posting a link to SC.com....where will be pics....i got some awesome ones too but some may need some PS (it was very sunny)

i'll try to have it up by tonight..

[tattooed_climber]

here's alil taste

[tattooed_climber]

Well, i gots the TR up on RCcola.com

Another Day, Another Bail:Widowmaker's Arete

[PAW]

climbed this route yesturday in a long 13hour day ctc. We approached via Lynn Headwaters Park and were at the base in 3hours. Maybe more kilometers but not up and down like the Grouse approach.

Route was in good shape with just a couple of wet seeps. Rack recommendations would include cams to 4". On the final headwall we climbed on the right via a 4" tp 5" offwidth that could be lay backed and protected with some cams inside down low and the big guy up high.

The #4 cam got used as an anchor once and on lead twice.

Anyways hit the top in the sun after the clouds hung around for most of the day. Overall the rock quality was surprisingly good the views amazing and the solitude just outside the city limits maybe were unparralled.

Go get er.

[Rockitman]

A 13hr day is not long! Good job!

I did it two months ago, via the grind. It took us 24hrs ctc! We encountered a lot of hard pack snow on the approach (most of it was covered by at least a couple of meters). Luckily we decided to bring boots, rather then approach shoes, but no gaiters. We started up the grind at 5AM and made the traverse of the Camel's back as light turned to dark. We missed the last tram down (obviously)...
We chose not to bring the #4, although in retrospect it would have been nice to have it, and we headed straight up the final headwall, rather then the offwidth (although we looked at it). The climbing straight up the wall was excellent, but probably 5.10a not 5.9 (very recommended though!)...

All in all an excellent route!