Sunshine Breakfast & Everything under the sun.

[Squamishmonkey]

I am planning to climb 'Everything under the sun' (EUTS) and am wondering if it is possible to climb Sunshine Breakfast first and then walk up and north to the top of EUTS and rap in?
If not...what is the best approach to EUTS.
I am also interested in any further info on Sunshine Breakfast, other what is in the guide book and on this site. I would like feedback from anyone who has climbed it personally.
If you know the following please help me out, gear?, crux moves, traverses? length of pitches? bolted or natural anchors, key features to locate the base of the climb etc.

Thanks....there is a free beer for anyone who knows the full beta on both routes and will spend the time to help me out...

[thebigchin]

Or you could just get a topo and go climb it!

[Climbingjunky]

Or you could just get a topo and go climb it!

where's the fun in that?

[thebigchin]

Actually, the beta that I'll give is:

1) Belay at the tree on the 1st pitch. Otherwise you'll have the worst rope drag that you've ever had.
2) Make sure that you take the right turn when necessary. The straight up route looks good but you end up running out almost 25meters of unprotected 10- slab.

[tedium]

If you havnt already done so you can download a useful topo for EUTS from http://www.squamishclimbing.com/free_topos.htm.

After Sunshine Breakfast it should be possible to walk up the slabs north to EUTS. Note that, despite what the topo says, you dont go to the top of Sunblessed. Stay instead on the slabs above this climb and keep walking north through mixed slab/bush. If youre lucky you will see a red trail marker on a tree near the top anchors of EUTS. Otherwise just keep looking. You need a full rack for EUTS (up to about 3 inch cams) emphasizing small and mid-size cams. Also we were glad to have bought the purple TCU recommended in the topo for the undercling on pitch 1. It was the only piece I placed on this section that didnt seem "cosmetic". ETUS is an excellent climb and well worth the hike in. As the topo says it has a great remote feel. If youre planning on doing both Sunshine Breakfast and ETUS better get an early start; this would be a long day for most moderate climbers.

[Mr.Sleazy]

I am planning to climb 'Everything under the sun' (EUTS) and am wondering if it is possible to climb Sunshine Breakfast first and then walk up and north to the top of EUTS and rap in?
If not...what is the best approach to EUTS.

It is definitely possible to climb EUTS after Sunshine Bfast. This is a pretty full day for me, I would be setting my own alarm to get up fairly early.

I am also interested in any further info on Sunshine Breakfast, other what is in the guide book and on this site. I would like feedback from anyone who has climbed it personally.
If you know the following please help me out, gear?, crux moves, traverses? length of pitches? bolted or natural anchors, key features to locate the base of the climb etc.

1. Don't follow McKlane guidebook, use the Select or better yet the topos on this site.
2. Technical crux is right off the ground and is basically top-roped if you can shove a cam high enough over your head. Its solid 5.9 for sure. I second Big Chin advice above to belay at the first tree, rope drag is a problem on this route and I should have done the topo accordingly...
3. Anchors are are mostly natural gear or trees. If you go do the 1000 holds variation there is a bolt station at the bottom of this slab (but not at the top!).
4. The base of the climb is beside the Solarium trail BEFORE Sunblessed, its a small salal-covered ledge with a little trail just after (north) you pass a very large cedar tree and the main trail goes down a little drop. Immediately after the base of Sunshine the bottom rotten overhangs start; these basically cut off much of the good climbing above till we found the secret tunnel.
5. The secret tunnel is a really cool pitch and may lead to a land lost in time.

Thanks....there is a free beer for anyone who knows the full beta on both routes and will spend the time to help me out...

Hope your serious about the free beer. You can arrange to hook up to provide said beer by contacting me brianpegg(at)gmail.com

The top of Everything is about 150 m north of Sunshine Bfast, and yes to not go the the "official" top out of Sunblessed, you will just end up scrambling back up again. Beta listed by tedium is pretty dead-on for the route. That red trail marker was the red sling we left on the top bolt to fend off any route poachers while we were developing. As if that would be an issue! The purple TCU is critical for the Pitch 1 crux. I would be scared scared scared without it.

Please post your impressions of the routes after you're done I would love to hear it.

[Squamishmonkey]

Brian I completed both routes today.
You asked for my impressions of the routes:
Sunshine breakfast; I agree with 5.9 and the crux is totally protected with a #3. off the first ledge
The route was easy to find with your description so many thanks. Very cool cave/chasm and then out onto the face. The book says gear to 5", this is over kill as a standard rack (up to 3") would have been fine. The route was clean and in a nice location. The last slab pitch was a lttle run out as I and my seconder both missed the bolts after the scoop.
Everything under the sun; Brilliant location on an rarely seen cliff. The route was fun with amazing dyke holds. The grade is about right but if 5.10b is max it would be commmitting pulling the ropes and gear can be tricky to place in the flaring cracks with the crystalized granite up there. The rock exfoliates slightly which may disappear if it sees enough traffic.
There is great potential on both sides of your climb for new route development.

The beer is totally for real and I will Email you so you can enjoy a cold one on me.

Normally I would just get a topo and just climb it as 'big chin' pointed out (sarcastically) but today had special circumstances that required proper planning. So thankyou very much Brain, I will be recommending EUTS to others. Enjoy your free beer.

[Mr.Sleazy]

Way to go, squamishmonkey, good on you to get both routes done in a day. Glad you enjoyed the climb.

There is endless potential around Squamish for new routes of high quality provided you are prepared to (1) hike more than 1/2 hour; (2) do some scrubbing; and (3) will spend a day "scouting" instead of climbing.

If you liked those climbs, go do Frankenstein Tradster on the Apron. I don't thing anyone climbs it....

Topo here: http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topo/Frankenstein.pdf

Cheers!

[XXXX]

there is endless potential less than ***5 minutes hike*** from the road if you drive to cheakamus canyon - hiking an hour in squamish to new route is for suckers

[Mr.Sleazy]

Oh I forgot some people still call them "routes" when they are less than 25 m long!