Where the River Bends...

[JasonMLawson]

Anyone done it? .10b South Gully (by Apron)
starts down and right a little ways of Rock On.

at the last bolt (see poorly drawn topo) does it go straight up over slab bulge w/ almost no holds or does it cut straight out right?
i did this route on Sat. just going by memory of what i had glanced at in the new (McLane) guide. got to that last bolt and it seemed way hard and i wasn't sure if i should of gone straight up through those hard bulge moves or cut over off to the right. if anyone knows i'd appreciate the beta and/or a topo would be awsome. good route either way (a little dirty though)
thanks
[img]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/
503/6947Where_the_river_bends.JPG[/img]

[JasonMLawson]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/sho ... hoto=19029

sorry, i'm not sure how to attach pic's but here's the link

[JasonMLawson]

yet again another mistake... it has been brought to my attention that the route is actually "Bad Pants Party". but still, same question...

[t-bone]

I did this route last year.
Which pitch are you talking about? I remember the top of the 2nd pitch being difficult for 10b but it was really dirty so it was tough to get a gauge on the rating.
I also remember the last pitch being fairly easy but maybe I went right?

[JasonMLawson]

i just picked up a copy of the new McLane book, and i an talking about the 3rd pitch, but it does look like it goes out right (at 5.. but right at the start of that 3rd pitch there is a bolt right before the tree ledge and it was out in the middle of the above mentioned buldge.

[XXXX]

You know that Bad Pants Sandbag is actually more like 11a than the 10b it gets in the McLane guide right? I heard that Kevin was so pissed that he was going to hike up there and put a little sign warning people about it. Seems like JF described the climb to him before he'd finished scrubbing it? Care to comment Mr Furneaux?

[JasonMLawson]

really?...that atleast makes me feel a little better. thanks for the beta.

[Chris Christie]

You know that Bad Pants Sandbag is actually more like 11a than the 10b it gets in the McLane guide right? I heard that Kevin was so pissed that he was going to hike up there and put a little sign warning people about it. Seems like JF described the climb to him before he'd finished scrubbing it? Care to comment Mr Furneaux?

If we are talking the same route that has a fixed rope 2 1/2 pitch just right of Rock On ( Black Barley style hangers) there is a single move that is height dependent. I would call it mid 10 but I'm 6'2. The last pitch looked difficult and thin bouldery start..

[JasonMLawson]

yeah it does have fixed lined hanging. is that hight dependent move where you are standing balancy on a ledge with a buldge in front of you, with one bolt on the buldge and above that a tree w/ chains wrapped around it?

[Chris Christie]

yeah it does have fixed lined hanging. is that hight dependent move where you are standing balancy on a ledge with a buldge in front of you, with one bolt on the buldge and above that a tree w/ chains wrapped around it?

Sounds the same for sure, no tree with chains though, all stations are fixed. I climbed past 2 equalized hangers and did it in one pitch to the fixed rope. Rapped to bottom of Rock On and did that..

[XXXX]

Bad Pants Party is not the Barley route. The Barley route is squeezed in just right of Rock On and joins it around 3 pitches up. Bad Pants Party is further right and starts up the bottom pitch of Where The River Bends before moving left and climbing to the rim via a series of dirty sandbags masquerading as a completed route.

[thebigchin]

Bad Pants Party is not the Barley route. The Barley route is squeezed in just right of Rock On and joins it around 3 pitches up. Bad Pants Party is further right and starts up the bottom pitch of Where The River Bends before moving left and climbing to the rim via a series of dirty sandbags masquerading as a completed route.

Word to that. I was pretty pissed off last summer when I climbed it. I fired off an email to McLain letting him know about the brutal misrepresentation. He had never climbed it and had taken the word of the dude that put it up. Fair enough. He can't climb everything.

Its easy to be off by a letter grade or 2, but this is a serious sandbag. Its also a crappy, filthy route that barely deserves to be included in the guide, never mind multiple stars.

Grrr.... I thought I was over it, but apparently I'm still bitter....