Good sport routes : Grand wall area

[RobS]

Hi Guys, I'm coming over from england at the end of august and just wondered if anyone could recommend any good sport routes around the grand wall area as I think I will be staying at the campsite there for some of the time. I have seen a picture of permanent waves but have heard it’s really reachy at the top? Also, I have heard about a route called young blood, is this any good and what sort of climbing is it, more specifically is it bouldery as I prefer this sort of thing to massive stamina pitches. I have loads of info on the trad but not much on the sport so would really appreciate any help especially on area classics up to 5.13.

Thanks a lot.

Rob.

[Dooley]

If you can send 13 then spend some time on the "Black Dyke". Very impressive!!!

[JSmith]

Try Permenant waves .13c, Eurasian Eyes .13a, Strait Outta Squampton (With or without rope).13b/v9, Creepshow.13b, Youngblood.13a. That should keep you busy for a month.

[Rock_Climber]

Isn't Youngblood that glued together boulder problem on the Kacodemon with the mankey looking bolts? ...cause if so it's pretty cool I just can't help wondering how rusty is too rusty

[JSmith]

Hey rock_climber. I'll pay you $1000 to "boulder" Youngblood. Post up the video to collect your prize.

[RobS]

Thanks guys thats exactly what I was after. Young blood sounds cool and Strait Outta Squampton looks amazing. Guess conditions won't be great in august but will see. The route "archives" looks very cool, have any of you sent it and whats it like? If you know of any videos on the net with these routes in I'd be grateful if you could point me in the right direction. Im very excited about visiting.

Thanks for your help

Rob

[Clive kessler]

Good luck with that list the Jsmith gave you... Its full of classics.

[MCpl]

There is also the recently opened project still awiting a repeat send ... I think the name is dreamcatcher. Its supposed to be hard.

The bolts on Youngblood are fine. No Glued holds on it. Bravado has glue on the flake pass Yongblood to reinforce it.

Permenant Waves isn't really reachy. I'm 5'8" and I could reach the hold. I know of shorter people who have been able to do it.

Creepshow is apparently suited for taller people.

In the same area there is Archives - 5.12d, Technical Ecstasy - 5.13a and Silent Menance - 5.14a

Hope you get them all. Keep us updated.

[Rock_Climber]

Sorry JSmith but I don't have a video camera
I'm too cheap for now to buy a better guidebook but is there a good place to find info on these climbs(i.e. where they are)?

[JSmith]

All of these climbs are in the cheif boulders in the same general area. To find them you need to find the Cacodemon boulder. This is easy, ask anyone or simply find the biggest boulder in the boulders (no contest). Most of the climbs mentioned are on this. Young blood, Bravado, and Creepshow are facing down hill. Permanent Waves faces up hill, starting on a tree with spikes for a ladder. Dreamcatcher and Silent Menace are in a huge cave on the north side. Archives and Technical Extacy are on the next boulder north facing down hill. Strait Outta Squampton is about 250m uphill (and a little left) from Permanent, facing down hill. Eurasian Eyes is on the left arete of the Bullettheads. Hike up the gully to a good ledge.
Don't say I never did anything for you.

[Rock_Climber]

Thanks