News about the Gorge from the SAS
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Squamish Access Society
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News about the Gorge from the SAS
The Current Situation At the Cheakamus Gorge Climbing Area
The Gorge climbing area below Highway 99, between Rogue's Gallery and the Conroy Creek crags has been closed for a couple of years while the provincial Ministry of Transportation took remedial action arising from blasting for the Highway 99 road widening.
After the blasting was completed in 2004, John Howe, Kevin McLane and Tyrone Brett of the SAS (with help in the field from Mandoline Clark and Jeff Thomson of CASBC) began lengthy discussion with MOT on how best to re-establish the area, and although it has taken awhile to finish, the outstanding results are to MOT's great credit. The final steps of the work program are still to be finished this spring. In the meantime Star Chek is open for climbing, but the SAS asks climbers to avoid other routes for a few more weeks until all the work is complete. When that is achieved, we will post the news on this forum. As with any climbing area, you play at your own risk.
The New Trail
A new trail has been built directly from the Highway parking area to Gotham City, down through the narrow approach canyon, and on down to the start of Star Chek. It is a really outstanding piece of work and a pleasure to walk on. It is now, incredibly, a quick hike of about 12 minutes to the foot of Star Chek. At present, the traverse below Gotham City needs a bit more work, so be careful there until it is finished.
Parking
The only place to park is in the large designated pullout off the southbound lane of the Highway, north of the Gorge. Parking near the top of Star Chek is illegal. Please respect this, it is part of the accord the SAS has reached with MOT. For climbers driving up from the south, please note that turning left into the parking area is illegal (which is was before anyway). The safest procedure is to drive on 300m to the new salt shed, turn in there and head back south.
Star Chek
Due to the situation on the upper slopes above Star Chek, the new trail, the no parking, and the increasing hassles caused by climbers rapping in on top of others who are climbing, Star Chek must only be approached by walking down the new trail. Do not rappel in, and feel free to energetically discourage anyone from trying. Do Not Rappel signs will be going up this spring. The Star Chek exit is further right than before; a steep scramble up a cleaned-out groove. Once back on Highway 99, it is less than 10 minutes walk back to the parking.
Rebolting
A necessary re-bolting program is yet to be completed. It will cover essential replacements and new anchors on Star Chek, Joker's Corner and a few others. There are also many new climbs that can be done, including in the area of small crags by the river, north of Gotham City.
Signage
When signage goes up 100m down from the trailhead, at the top of Star Chek, and at the base of Gotham City it will set out the information above, and a few other protocols that we must all stick to. More later...
Helmets
Some climbers may prefer to wear a helmet, just as at the Base of the Grand Wall and elsewhere, but the risk of stonefall after MOT's excellent scaling job seems no greater than at many other crags.
Squamish Access Society
The Gorge climbing area below Highway 99, between Rogue's Gallery and the Conroy Creek crags has been closed for a couple of years while the provincial Ministry of Transportation took remedial action arising from blasting for the Highway 99 road widening.
After the blasting was completed in 2004, John Howe, Kevin McLane and Tyrone Brett of the SAS (with help in the field from Mandoline Clark and Jeff Thomson of CASBC) began lengthy discussion with MOT on how best to re-establish the area, and although it has taken awhile to finish, the outstanding results are to MOT's great credit. The final steps of the work program are still to be finished this spring. In the meantime Star Chek is open for climbing, but the SAS asks climbers to avoid other routes for a few more weeks until all the work is complete. When that is achieved, we will post the news on this forum. As with any climbing area, you play at your own risk.
The New Trail
A new trail has been built directly from the Highway parking area to Gotham City, down through the narrow approach canyon, and on down to the start of Star Chek. It is a really outstanding piece of work and a pleasure to walk on. It is now, incredibly, a quick hike of about 12 minutes to the foot of Star Chek. At present, the traverse below Gotham City needs a bit more work, so be careful there until it is finished.
Parking
The only place to park is in the large designated pullout off the southbound lane of the Highway, north of the Gorge. Parking near the top of Star Chek is illegal. Please respect this, it is part of the accord the SAS has reached with MOT. For climbers driving up from the south, please note that turning left into the parking area is illegal (which is was before anyway). The safest procedure is to drive on 300m to the new salt shed, turn in there and head back south.
Star Chek
Due to the situation on the upper slopes above Star Chek, the new trail, the no parking, and the increasing hassles caused by climbers rapping in on top of others who are climbing, Star Chek must only be approached by walking down the new trail. Do not rappel in, and feel free to energetically discourage anyone from trying. Do Not Rappel signs will be going up this spring. The Star Chek exit is further right than before; a steep scramble up a cleaned-out groove. Once back on Highway 99, it is less than 10 minutes walk back to the parking.
Rebolting
A necessary re-bolting program is yet to be completed. It will cover essential replacements and new anchors on Star Chek, Joker's Corner and a few others. There are also many new climbs that can be done, including in the area of small crags by the river, north of Gotham City.
Signage
When signage goes up 100m down from the trailhead, at the top of Star Chek, and at the base of Gotham City it will set out the information above, and a few other protocols that we must all stick to. More later...
Helmets
Some climbers may prefer to wear a helmet, just as at the Base of the Grand Wall and elsewhere, but the risk of stonefall after MOT's excellent scaling job seems no greater than at many other crags.
Squamish Access Society
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