Will the lower malamute ever be opened again.

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tangledfeet
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Will the lower malamute ever be opened again.

Post by tangledfeet » Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:02 am

I know there is a lot of conflict concerning the area.
I know that climbers in many ways messed it up with dogs, gear and a failure to put there sh*t away.
But...

There are some incredible cracks down there just slowy growing over with green moss.

In the past there was talk of a fence or some other structure to re-open the area. Was it a pipe dream? Was it to expensive? Should I just forget about it and realise it will never be open in my lifetime?

Is CN (the PR champions of the year) slightly more open to change and a working solution.

It makes me think of the cookie jar scenario. You know you shouldn't but the cookies sure would taste good....

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Sun Apr 09, 2006 12:45 pm

Yeah, I'd like to know too. Wazzup?

erock
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Post by erock » Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:59 pm

http://www.access-society.ca/squamish/s ... html#item8

Looks like no new news yet. maybe someone should start nagging the acess society, but it sounds like their on the ball.

i've never even been down there but i'm wondering if the 8 meter right-of -way covers the whole crag? are there some climbs that are legally do able? Also, it says that the right-of-way is vertical after the 8m. is lower malamute fully vertical? does this area totally consume lower malamute? maybe you can rap in, bulid an anchor perhaps? maybe this would just cause more issues with acess in the area, but if they arent ever going to open the area again untill the train is gone, then what the hell?

monocampus
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opening the lower malamute

Post by monocampus » Tue Apr 11, 2006 12:21 pm

Basically CN rail should re-open the lower malamute as a good-will gesture and a show of good faith. They have done nothing positive for the community and they killed our river. The money that they have put back into revitalizing the river is a pitance and an insult. I for one am thinking about going ahead and climbing on it as if it is still open. First I think I want to submit editorial letters this week to the Chief and maybe the province (rag) and the Vancouver Sun. If anyone is really concerned about getting access back do something.... Write a letter, make some phone calls, go to the misadventure centre and raise a complaint. I believe that there should be someone in charge of promoting climbing in there making 60K+ and most likely that person is a good friend with someone on town council. :wink:

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Post by gearheart » Tue Apr 11, 2006 7:10 pm

Tricky subject. Firstly, there is quite a bit that can be done with rap approaches - the guidebooks are very helpful, the 2005 Climbers Guide to Squamish is pretty clear about what's outside of the right of way and open and what is not. Some of the rap approaches are still hard to find, though - be ready to wander the ledges searching for bolts.
I wish that CN would see the positive public relations gain by reopening the crag, but I doubt they even remotely care about that anyway. Maybe some letters to the editor in the Chief will start something. For the moment, best to respect the closure and hopefully things will move soon.
Todd

erock
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Post by erock » Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:02 pm

there is quite a bit that can be done with rap approaches
I knew it! any idea what climbs this works for? from what i can see it seems to be the stuff near fungus razor would be out of the right of way.

oh yah, i think monocampus has a point there with the whole poison river thing. they really did screw up and need to make a point of their public relations.

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Post by Peter » Mon Apr 17, 2006 3:20 pm

I heard they've already cemented over the base of clean crack. Can anyone verify?

tangledfeet
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Post by tangledfeet » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:53 am

Went by clean crack the other day. No cement, but they bolted a sign right at the crux at the begining. Now you can step on a bolt (damn annoying spot for it).

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