Rack advice please

[stikkimorey]

Hi

We are planning to come over from the UK in August for our honeymoon and would like to climb some of the easier routes (up to 5.10) in the area, including on The Chief and was wondering what we should be thinking of bringing with us regards a rack.

I was guessing one and a half rack of nuts, a set of hexcentrics and a handful of cams, but if we need to have more cams, or if we need lots of cams in specific sizes, it would be nice to know so I can add them to my Christmas present list...

Many thanks

Mikki

[gnarnaphobe]

Most routes in the area tend to take a variety of gear so when climbing below or at your limit a single rack from tips to big fist supplenmented with a healthy selection of wires and half a dozen runners will usually suffice.

When pushing into a new grade a double rack will often soften the catch and provide some piece of mind.

Certain routes with full rope length pitches or relentless splitters will no doubt require more gear.

LC

[ryanlynne]

It depends on your abilities, comfort level, and style of climbing, but the following will get you up most things:

- 60m rope
-12 quickdraws (2-4 extendable)
- full set of nuts
- BD C4 cams #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2 (or equivalent size in another brand)
- 5-6m cordlette for and anchor with 4 lockers
- Guide atc, nut tool, adjustable wrench

If you want to do wider cracks you will probably want some bigger cams (or doubles), if you want to do some smaller finger cracks you may want more smaller cams (or doubles).

[stikkimorey]

Hi

Thanks for all of the replies!

Do you guys climb on 60m singles then - will that be OK for abbing off? I was thinking of bringing 2 60m ropes..

Also - thanks for the tips on the cams we will need - not as brave as I was in my youth Bearbreeder!

Mikki

[slhughes]

one 6om rope is fine. if you need to bail- there's usually fixed gear somewhere in range. saying that, a 70m is preferable. a set and half of wires is good. double set of cams though, for sure. get some small ones, below finger size. one #3 camalot, one3.5 and a 4 also. leave the hexes at home. you don't need seagull defence here.

[serac]

If you are quick with the hex (almost an oxymoron) don't leave them at home. Almost all the 5.7 to 5.10 routes will take two BD #2 and or two BD #3 and a lot will take a #4. Obviously the cams are going to be faster but jamming the hex in early from a good stance will save the cam for later. 60 meter single rope is fine.