University wall and Uncle Bens

[dac33]

Hi, I'm after a few details about the approach and tactics for an aid solo of these routes. Looking at Matt Maddaloni's Big Walls guide:

1. University wall is given 5.10 at one point - on a slab. Is this true, or can I cheat my way around this? (and is it 5.10a or d?)
2. Uncle Bens is given 5.10c, again, can I cheat my way around this - the "5.10 moves on bad rock" bit up high also looks fun for a soloist.
3. How hard is the flake trail to walk along with a haul bag? I guess I'm asking whether I carry the bags along the flake trail, or drop a rope down and haul them up to the far end of flake trail.

Thanks.

[marc_leclerc]

Hi dac33, regarding these two routes. I've rope soloed both a couple of times using a variety of techniques.

To answer your questions,

On U wall the only mandatory free moves I recall are in a chimney/offwidth feature on pitch 4. This part is about 5.7 or so, with a (slightly dodgy) fixed pin to help out if needed. Higher up there is a fixed traverse on horizontal pins that is 5.10 to free climb. On the last pitch I recall there being some old bolts to aid the slab, followed by another traverse on fixed pins and good hooks. If there is a mandatory free move I doubt it's any harder than 10a. I didn't carry rock shoes.

The 10c on Uncle Bens is a traverse that is C1 to aid. There are a couple free moves to get to the crack from what I remember, I had rock shoes for this. There are many sections of Uncle Bens that are faster and/or easier to free than to aid: two moves getting to the belay above the roof, a layback flake on the pitch after the roof, above the yellow sickle, the last couple pitches ect... So aiding in comfy rock shoes can be an okay way to go for some pitches. All depends on whether or not you want be quick, or leisurely.

The traverse on bad rock has fixed pins and I remember the rock not being bad anyhow.

I have walked up the flake with a haul bag en route to Humpty Dumpty, I don't remember it being too bad, but there is a chain you have to yard up. Depends how big the bag I guess. I have seen most people haul up their bag after walking a rope around.

Both routes are reasonable to do in a day.

I hope this helps!

[dac33]

........ I hope this helps!

Perfect. Thanks.

PS. I'm going to take longer than a day soloing I guess.