Mank Patrol

[ryanlynne]

Pink Cliff - Vertically Challenged (5.9): The first bolt is spinning and can't be tightened
Tunnel Rock - Centralia (5.10b): Hornets nest just above the anchor for Three Shot Face (5.10c) where the crack is ~3-5" wide.
Woodpecker Pole - Writhing Ridge (5.10a): wasp nest just below the belay in the dead stump.

[wanderlusted]

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, but a loose or missing hanger, or a worn quicklink are the responsibility of all climbers. The SAS and other organizations have done a great job funding, or actually doing the rebolting of older routes with less than sufficient or outdated fixed protection.

Please try to make a habit of bringing a small kit with you when cragging to deal with these minor issues. Here's what I suggest:

- 1 or 2 hangers
- 2 nuts, stainless steel 3/8" coarse thread (NC). On spots where they commonly get loose like major direction changes, changing to Nyloc nuts can be helpful (Those are the ones with the little plastic ring pressed into the top.)
- 2 washers, stainless steel, 3/8"
- 1 quicklink, 5/16" or 3/8" QUALITY one with a real strength rating
- 1 small adjustable wrench (I found a little one with a 4" handle that just opens wide enough for a 9/16" nut, which is the size for a 3/8" bolt)

That setup lives in the bottom of my pack and weighs less than two quickdraws. Not only can you do a service to the local community by solving those little housekeeping issues at the crag, but you may also save yourself the inconvenience of a missing hanger on your intended route.

Now get off your computer and go climbing.

K

I am all for this, but can anyone give any specifics on tightening the nuts? Is there a ballpark tq rating or do you just wing it and go fairly tight?

Also, I've always wondered why don't people use blue loctite on hanger nuts? Wouldn't that help prevent loosening of nuts? Removal wouldn't be that difficult with blue loctite either.

[johnthethird]

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, but a loose or missing hanger, or a worn quicklink are the responsibility of all climbers. The SAS and other organizations have done a great job funding, or actually doing the rebolting of older routes with less than sufficient or outdated fixed protection.

Please try to make a habit of bringing a small kit with you when cragging to deal with these minor issues. Here's what I suggest:

- 1 or 2 hangers
- 2 nuts, stainless steel 3/8" coarse thread (NC). On spots where they commonly get loose like major direction changes, changing to Nyloc nuts can be helpful (Those are the ones with the little plastic ring pressed into the top.)
- 2 washers, stainless steel, 3/8"
- 1 quicklink, 5/16" or 3/8" QUALITY one with a real strength rating
- 1 small adjustable wrench (I found a little one with a 4" handle that just opens wide enough for a 9/16" nut, which is the size for a 3/8" bolt)

That setup lives in the bottom of my pack and weighs less than two quickdraws. Not only can you do a service to the local community by solving those little housekeeping issues at the crag, but you may also save yourself the inconvenience of a missing hanger on your intended route.

Now get off your computer and go climbing.

K

I am all for this, but can anyone give any specifics on tightening the nuts? Is there a ballpark tq rating or do you just wing it and go fairly tight?

Also, I've always wondered why don't people use blue loctite on hanger nuts? Wouldn't that help prevent loosening of nuts? Removal wouldn't be that difficult with blue loctite either.

1/4 turn past finger tight is what I was taught. Over tightening is bad.

[woahmid]

What grade stainless is the hardware in Squamish? 304 or 316?

[MarkR]

The second bolt from the top on Dreams of Passion (Ronin's Corner) needs replacing - the bolt is spinning in its hole, even when fully tightened.

[smallman]

@ woahmid:
the bolts I use from Hilti are 304 stainless. It is the most readily available and as we seem not have the same issues with stress corrosion cracking seen in tropical maritime sedimentary rock climbing areas.

[TravisMcC]

Has anyone topped out on Warriors of the Wasteland recently?

The obvious place for an anchor after P7 has one bolt, a washer and a nut (so no hanger). I think it has been like this for several years now? You can get some gear beside this lone bolt, but the quality of rock is not very good.

There seems to be antique anchors midway up P8 as well, with perfect bomber gear in the crack beside them. Perhaps this is the spot of the original anchors for the end of P7? Using this as an anchor for P7 does not seem intuitive to me given the traversing nature of P7.

I understand most parties rappel after P6, but the final two pitches are well worth doing.

Anyways, these are just most observations. Has anyone else been up there and have thoughts?

[pgb]

Silver surfer at seal cove is missing a hanger on the final bolt. It would be a bold(er than I am) send without it.

[tsouth]

Not a huge deal but the bottom draw on mrs. negative has a floppy gate. I've been meaning to take it off and tinker with it but have forgot my pliers the last few times at chek. Otherwise a new solid gate biner would work too. Anyone have a source on where to get the solid gate ones? MEC, Climbon, and VPO don't have them as far as I'm aware.

[MaxStu.art]

Hello!
I should have posted earlier but excuses, excuses.
On my trip this past summer to Squamish, my partner and I did Grand Wall. At Pitch 9 I decided to try the 11a straight up variation (to the left of the sail flake) and upon my movement through the crux I almost pulled off the LARGE shark fin type flake. As I was reaching up past the "bolt" (a bolt with no hangar, but a sunbleached dogbone from a quick draw and a small quicklink, with the hex bolt screwed on) I felt the flake pull out 1-3 inches to my horror. So i took, lowered off, and climbed the sail. Not sure if anything can be done about the huge flake or the bolt with no hangar. It would surely land on the belay ledge and explode everywhere if pulled off.

Max

[tsouth]

A few of the bolts on serendipity at Rogue's Gallary are looking pretty mank. Rusty nut bolt and slight staining of the hanger.

[t-bone]

At the Black Zawn, the first 2 pins on The Crucifix are in terrible shape (rusted/corroded).

Not sure if Kevin McClane frequents this forum, but I would be interested in his thoughts on replacing the 3 pins on this route and also the one on Black Flag. IMO, the first pin of the Crucifix should be replaced with a bolt but the 2nd and 3rd could just be pulled as there is gear nearby.

On Black Flag, the piton looked to be in a bit better shape but I'd suggest it should be replaced with bolt.

Great climbing on both these routes (and Perfidious Albion)...would be nice to see this area get some more traffic.

[tbc]

The rappel anchors on Borderline could use an update. The last 2 rappels are just hangers and tat/webbing that hang super low. Added more new sling and cleaned out some brittle cord but could be those nice fixe rings like the upper anchors have.

[natsdad]

Relish Route on the AMO wall at Shannon Falls has a missing hanger on 7th bolt of first pitch (past the intermediate anchor). The bolt is there, but no hanger/nut. Otherwise, very nice route. There is now a fourth pitch (very low fith class - 4 bolts plus bolted anchor) that leads close to the top of the crag allowing for walking off the back side of this small formation...you eventually pop out very close to the viewing platform of Shannon Falls.

[pixel]

The Playground has a couple of items that could use an update:
1. One of the routes on the right (might be "Skipping Stones"?) has a bolt with a missing hanger higher up. It might be near a chalk X marked on the rock.
2. The anchor at the top of Lost and Found has deeply grooved lowering carabiners on the anchor.