Squamish's stiffest routes...

[scrubber]

There's a 10a pitch that starts below Quagmire Crack. I don't have the guide book in front of me, but I think it gets 3 stars. All I got from it was super-pumped (making Quagmire feel extra sustained).

possibly the hardest 10a i've ever suffered through around here.

Wow, what an odd privilege. I started the post, and one of the first routes I put up when I moved here was nominated! (my routes are sometimes called soft, but rarely accused of being a sand bag) The route is called Canadian Compromise, by the way.

K

+1 on Red Nails (ouch!)

[sibylle]

How about the 5.7 pitch on Merci Me? I comfortably led Banana Peel, the Snake, and various slab climbs in Tuolumne, and did not lead Merci Me.

also

Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked

-- I agree,struggled on the end there.

[relic]

What is the big hairy deal with Orfice Fish? It's all mostly jugs and handjams. Is the upper corner crack the hard part?

[NateDoggOG]

Pumpy.

[gnarnaphobe]

In my (post-humbled) opinion tantalus crack is one of the burliest crack of the grade around..

It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..

Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.

A full value grovel!

[Brendan]

In my (post-humbled) opinion tantalus crack is one of the burliest crack of the grade around..

I would have to agree.

It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..

I would also have to agree.

Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.

Although I do agree every should access Cerberus from the lower pitches at least once in their lifetime, I agree more with hiking up through the Bulletheads, climbing Moonwatcher .9 to access the top of T-Wall, then rapping down in two raps with 2x 70m ropes to the base, and climbing out with nothing but 16 quickdraws on your harness (and a sling/biners for the anchors and a belay device). After all, why haul a bunch of 6" cams up a sport climb.
It’s a much (much) more enjoyable way to experience the crux twin cracks on p2.

A full value grovel!

Also agree. Although the crack in the back is helpful, it pumps out your right arm, and is very hard to reach for the first few meters...

[jstod]

Just because basking in defeat and humiliation is so fun I thought I'd revive this thread and would like to nominate "Never Say Never" on Gobsmacking wall to this list.

This one has caused me to totally re-evaluate my self-worth as a climber… perhaps it's just that overhanging off-hand jams to insecure finger locks to heady moves way above gear isn't "my style"

Regardless - great route - just f'n hard!!!

Julian

[TravisMcC]

When I got on that, I was just starting to feel confident at the 5.11b grade. That climb knocked me down a few pegs. OK, maybe more than a few...

[marc_leclerc]

All the 5.12 pitches I climbed in the Yosemite felt easier on the onsight than similarly graded lines in Squamish. I onisghted 7 of 8 5.12 pitches I tried down there including supposed 12d stemming on RP's on El Cap. My track record in Squam isn't as good, it's not as soft here as people often suggest, unless ur talking 5.9's and 10's... which are easy everywhere but index.

[bennygroundh20]

Not a 5.12 climber, but one can dream i guess.. I felt like the Right Wing 10.d was pretty stiff, but then again I could use a workout now and then.

[Jonny5]

Snorter 5.8 kicked my butt. Now mind you I'm a noob and this was my 3rd 5.8 trad pitch I tried to lead after the last pitch of Diedre and Easter Island, so I might not have a clue what I'm talking about.

...
Clean Corner is pretty hard for a Squamish 5.8 too.

Thanks for the heads up

[gnarnaphobe]

Thread resurrection..

Wankulator Feels pretty stiff but it's mainly just off the ground that is heady.

Genesis feels extremely stout for the grade, given the sporty crux moves above thin wires and a ledge fall potential.

I don't know what it is about Apron Strings but it feels quite stiff everytime.

From what I hear and the bloody hands Ive seen Wild Turkey is no "gimme".

What are some other routes around that seem to require more effort and headspace then the grade suggests?

[maurop]

Werewolves of London (11a)

Pretty much had to aid through it. It doesn't help when your fingers are too big for the crack. The ego took a big hit that day.

[ryanlynne]

These three all have a little something special:

Bughouse Heights - Skullduggery 5.10a
Bughouse Heights - Fata Morgana 5.8
Respiration Rock - Coronary Bypass 5.10a

[jonny2vests]

Some of my votes would be:
2nd pitch of High Plains Drifter

The last couple of moves are tricky for a short arse, but I had more trouble with the first pitch, didn't bring enough gear though so it was taxing in more than one way.