Mank Patrol

[DirtBagClimber]

The maillon on the permadraw at the crux of face the music at check is about 50% worn down from people taking whipper at the crux. The bolt has pretty much cut half way down on the maillon making a perfect cut for the bolt to sit in.

[woeisme]

The third bolt on Weak in July on The Crest is missing a hanger and nut. Although the climbing to the next complete bolt is easy there is decking potential if you slip before reaching it.

[hevyduty]

Hi Mr B i think your orientation is a bit out, when standing in front of One Foot In The Grave, Lone Rhino is to the right it`s a 2 bolt 5.11.The route was completely covered in moss, last week my young friend Eric rescrubbed it ,i then put new anchors on it, Its now good to go.I will check out the bolts on One Foot and the climb to the left, Last Moves .May i also say SAS can't fix theAnchors /Pro in the Bluffs Park ! the task seems to fall on local climbers. The route on the right is called Players Special! J S favourite smokes. Just to let you know all the routes left of Stumps at Neat & Cool are all being scrubbed reno`d . I removed quarter inch rivets and old hangers from Wasted Days / Nights its a stellar old climb, about another week and all the routes will be good to go, cheers Hevy

[marc_leclerc]

The first pitch of 'Genius Loci' could use some work. The first and last bolts are missing hangers and the studs are damaged and won't accept new nuts, making the pitch a bit uninviting.

The studs are rusty and should all be replaced, with all the bolts in place the pitch is not too runout, and it's a very classic route! The bolts on pitches 2, 3 and 4 all appear to have been replaced already.

[Jonny5]

Anchors for Pacing The Cage and Sparky at Malamute are missing a hanger each.

[Kyle]

The second to last bolt on Dreams of Passion at Ronins Corner needs replacing.

[scrubber]

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, but a loose or missing hanger, or a worn quicklink are the responsibility of all climbers. The SAS and other organizations have done a great job funding, or actually doing the rebolting of older routes with less than sufficient or outdated fixed protection.

Please try to make a habit of bringing a small kit with you when cragging to deal with these minor issues. Here's what I suggest:

- 1 or 2 hangers
- 2 nuts, stainless steel 3/8" coarse thread (NC). On spots where they commonly get loose like major direction changes, changing to Nyloc nuts can be helpful (Those are the ones with the little plastic ring pressed into the top.)
- 2 washers, stainless steel, 3/8"
- 1 quicklink, 5/16" or 3/8" QUALITY one with a real strength rating
- 1 small adjustable wrench (I found a little one with a 4" handle that just opens wide enough for a 9/16" nut, which is the size for a 3/8" bolt)

That setup lives in the bottom of my pack and weighs less than two quickdraws. Not only can you do a service to the local community by solving those little housekeeping issues at the crag, but you may also save yourself the inconvenience of a missing hanger on your intended route.

Now get off your computer and go climbing.

K

[jammer]

The second last bolt on Dreams of Passion (Ronins Corner) is damaged and dangling out of it's hole. It is in need of replacement for the climb to be safely (sanely) led.

[jammer]

I see that Kyle already beat me to the punch on this one... Right on - seems it's popular enough to catch some attention!

[Jonny5]

@Scrubber NO offense taken. As someone who has been climbing less than 2 years I found your post informative and will heed your advice

[DirtBagClimber]

The first bolt of swan song is loose as well. The whole bolt wiggles a bit inside the rock if you pull it up and down but the nut or hanger are ok. Not much of a problem right now and not as bad as dream of passion but its a matter of time until it gets worst.

Thanks Oli.

[npaolini]

The fifth bolt on dreams of passion (bluffs) is loose, but turning the nut just spins the bolt. I wasn't able to tighten it and it has about 1cm of play which makes it kind of scary (the route is run out enough already).

The anchors of Featureless Face (malamute) are incomplete. They were chains bolted directly to rock with no hangers but one of the chains is now missing.

[gnarnaphobe]

New nylon webbing and a quick link have been added to the slung horn anchor at the top of The Right Side of the Yosemite Pinnacle. There are several generation of slung tat up there of varying quality that should be cut off but I didn't have any cutters with me.

Also on the T-wall rappel route the tat on the last anchor before the ground is looking rather weather and should likely be replaced before it fails.

[quantum7]

Hanging Gardens - anchor at top of p2 is just a single bolt and chain. the other bolt has come out

[smallman]

I fixed the second anchor on Hanging Garden at the papoose June 06/2015 and cleaned the needles out of the cracks. It still may have a little residual dirt around but at least you can put gear in now.

Chris Small