Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards

[smallman]

Hi All:
Do you like climbing new routes and problems? Of course you do. Everyone does. Well here's your chance to show your favourite "digger" some love and appreciation (besides you girls giving them a huge flesh pressing hug at a minimum) as The Squamish Access Society is accepting nominations for the Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush awards to be awarded at our AGM or possibly a separate award ceremony/ partay. Awards are to be in the following categories:
1) Best new trad or mixed crag route (single pitch) hard 11 + , moderate 10-
2) best new sport route, hard 11 + , moderate 10-
3) best contributing boulderer
4) Best new multi-pitch
5) Best new crag or area.
6) Best re-scrub and retrofit.
7) Best new route name and back story

Nominations for a separate award for lifetime achievement (Induction into the Fellowship of the Golden Scrub Brush) will also be accepted for an individual or team. Candidates for this award can be currently active or retired local developers still living in the Squamish catchment area who have developed a significant body of quality climbs.

Nomination Rules:
1) Please choose routes developed since 2009. We wish to appreciate developers who have created the Second Golden Era of Squamish climbing.
2) Self Nomination in all categories EXCEPT CATEGORY 7 (BEST Route name and Story) will result in immediate disqualification. Category 7 nominations can be either self nominated or community nominated.
3) Nominations shall be accompanied by a brief rationale (max one paragraph) as to merits for nomination. This rationale should be more intellectual and have more substance than "because it is mega sick dude."
4) Internet flaming of other nominations will result in immediate disqualification of your nomination with ZERO exceptions.

Please submit your nominations to SAS's facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Squamish ... 1370216065. Nominations will be vetted by an esteemed panel of judges and selected nominations will be subject to public vote on our facebook page. Selected Best route name and back story candidates will be asked to present their story at a later function (10 min max) and the award will be presented based on audience response. Winners will get a beautiful trophy, bragging rights, our undying love and affection, and possibly some swag. We hope to make the awards ceremony a super evening out.

Chris Small
Squamish Access Society

[squamish climber]

Love this idea - seems like a great way to pay respects to the time, effort and cost all the route developers have invested so we all can benefit. -- Thanks for the initiative Chris Small et al at the Squamish Access Society.

Feel sorry for the panel of judges -- too many possible winners.

I'll have to give this some thought, but I think almost any selection of Hevy's routes in Smoke Bluffs Park would have to make the nomination list, as well as Jeremy Frimmer and Colin Moorhead, hmm and a bunch of others.

[smallman]

It has been brought to my attention that there are people who don't use Facebook. Weird. But for those people you can post your nominations on this thread. Also the closing date for nominations is oct 15, 2014 so we can have things ready for a mid to late November awards ceremony.

Chris Small.

[smallman]

Just a reminder that with this rainy weather (You aren't climbing anyway) it is a good time to get your nominations in for the Golden Scrub Brush Awards. The Nomination deadline of Oct 15, 2014 is fast approaching.

Chris Small
SAS

[natsdad]

Just a reminder that with this rainy weather

OK, Chris:

While it is raining, here are my nominations.

1. In the Firing Line (moderate)
2. Jugs not drugs (moderate)
3. Don’t know
4. Photophobia
5. Disaster Response Route + Poxy Crags
6. Hanging Gardens
7. The Man from Del Monte

Many thanks to all the diggers!

Steve

[smallman]

The Squamish Access Society presents The Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards - "Digging the New Breed". November 22, 2014 - Cliffside Pub, Squamish, BC. Awards ceremony - 7 - 10PM. Post awards After party too with "Dirty Digger" theme. Tickets 10$ Includes free beer and pulled pork sandwich. All proceeds to bolt replacement fund.

[hevyduty]

where do we get tickets , do u have any posters yet? Cheers hevy

[tobyfk]

OK, I will bite.

1) no ideas
2) hard sport: Alhambra (Gord Konkin's new area across the Cheakamus); moderate sport: Glass Slipper (Quercus)
3) Ryan Davy
4) Written in Stone (The Chief)
5) Fferys Wheel
6) Chewbacca (Gobsmacking Wall)
7) Land of MILF and Honeys (Down Among The Cedars)

Lifetime achievement award: Kris Wild

[scrubber]

1) Best new trad or mixed crag route (single pitch) hard 11 + , moderate 10-
Shapeshifter (Longhouse), New routes at Crack Rock by Harry Young
2) best new sport route, hard 11 + , moderate 10-
There are good sport routes in Squamish?
3) best contributing boulderer
Definately not my cup of tea
4) Best new multi-pitch
Sunset strip
5) Best new crag or area.
Longhouse
6) Best re-scrub and retrofit.
Multiple routes at right end of Papoose (John Howe)
7) Best new route name and back story
Land of MILF and Honeys (brilliant and true!)

Lifetime achievement award: (Dirty) Harry Young

It'll take a while to clear the backlog of amazing routes that have gone up in the last few years. I'm so psyched to see how many new routers there are compared to when I moved here seventeen seasons ago. Good luck to everyone, and keep up the hard work!

Kris

[squamish climber]

Okay, I think I'm ready with my nominations. I'm hoping more people are sitting on their ideas and getting ready to post them. This is a fun idea and I'm appreciating the submissions so far. Will also be posting on the SAS facebook.

Just to be clear, you are not required to provide a nomination for every category right?

Feel a little unworthy since I've not had an opportunity or the skill to climb so many of the new routes. But here goes

4) Best new multi-pitch
Skywalker - It's popularity speaks for itself. Involves a variety of techniques, slab, crack, laybacking and traversing. And the position and views are unique from the Chief. Plus the neat side-trip at the top of the climb to Shannon Creek pools is cool and refreshing. A fantastic addition to introduce the masses to multi-pitch climbing.

5) Best new crag or area.
Lumberland - I have two young kids who still bug me to take them back here to climb. There is something for everyone - the complete beginner and some nice moderates. There is the big ledge to split climbs up and give a sense of a multi-pitch. Hevy and Erica did a real nice job of making this crag accessible and pleasant to hang around the base.

6) Best re-scrub and retrofit.
Slab Alley - The elephant steps make this such a different climb from anything else in Squamish. I find this climb a ton of fun, it has more variety than Banana Peel and is not much more difficult. Anders Ourom did everything right. He consulted with the the first ascensionists and the climbing community. He tried to preserve the character of the original route while making it safer and more accessible. And he provided great background and running commentary on the project.

7) Best new route name and back story - Fog Ducker Spire - a catchy spoonerism. And when you think of the tremendous work that went into cleaning and making this climb - a big dose of irony.

Nominations for a separate award for lifetime achievement (Induction into the Fellowship of the Golden Scrub Brush) will also be accepted for an individual or team. Candidates for this award can be currently active or retired local developers still living in the Squamish catchment area who have developed a significant body of quality climbs.
- I nominate Donn Cann, Andre Lechner for Area 44. These two did a tremendous job from start to finish in creating a totally new climbing area and multiple crags. It has become a destination sport crag for people seeking a mellow, fun area in a stunning location. Donn and Andre gave a the new crag a unique character with their signage and UFO theme. It's an area you don't easily forget and want to come back to.

[marc_leclerc]

For hard new single pitch lines I'd like to nominate Jeremy Smith's 'The Bull', as it is a good example of the cutting edge of Squamish trad climbing, with 5.14 climbing in an R/X rated position. His effort was admirable as well considering the time he put into the route including recovering from an injury caused by a nasty whip on the route.

For contributing boulderer I nominate Miles Adamson for his many first ascents, repeats of almost every hard highball in Squamish and his first ascent of 'I Picked a Bad Day to Stop Sniffing Glue' a 30 something foot tall V11 with a crux near the top! Essentially a short 5.14 free solo.

I nominate Luke Nuefeld's route 'Barbarian' as the best new multi pitch. It's a bit hard for most people to appreciate but it's some visionary next level sh*t for Squamish multi pitch climbing.

It's one of Squamish's most stunning lines visually, a knife edge arete rising high above a steep series of roofs. The climbing is absolutely brilliant, with top notch gear protected climbing as well as hard and sustained sport climbing. The position on the upper arete is out of this world, with both hands matched on the arete, fighting the barn door, feet pasted on nothing!

Luke has raised the bar for Squamish Multi pitch climbing with this route, combining both visual aesthetics and 'strength of line' with extremely high technical standard of difficulty. The 5.13+ crux pitch is reminiscent of some of the most technical and thin Smoke Bluffs testpeices but high on an exposed arete with huge air beneath your feet and healthily spaced bolts to boot! Not to mention the runout and insecure 5.12 trad and solid 5.13 roof pitch one has to climb just to get there.

I know that these days Squamish is all about climbs for everyone and sunshine and lollipops and flowers and rainbows and familes and vegan puppies. But I think we need to applaud those who are truly pushing the strandards and raising the bar in terms of boldness, commitment and difficulty.

M-A

[slhughes]

i'm voting for stuff i've been on.
1.trad hard- trippett out.5.12- you couldn't design a better finish c.moorhead's route
trad easy- staples are forever 5.10. harry young's route on the pox wall. amazing line, as much gear as you can place.
2.sport easy- the burglar 5.10 at murrin. colin and em's route
sport hard- white noize 5.12 at the trestle. p. dub especial, although j.audenart's new 5.12's at suicide bluff piss all over anything squamish has produced recently.
3.not qualified to comment
4.ditto
5.top shelf. (like, duuuh)
6. the second nature refit. from eric. nice one
7. '59' harry young's tour de force of 5.11 greatness at the top shelf. he did it at the age of 59.
8. life time carriage clock for the mantel piece- robin barley. f**k yeah.

[greenerj]

1. Hard trad "59" F.A. Harry Young, Moderate trad ??
2. Moderate sport "The Burglar" hard sport "The Perfect Wife"
3. Contributing boulderer Jack Fieldhouse
4. Best new multi-pitch "Written in Stone"
5. Best new crag/area Top Shelf!!! without a question!
6. Best re-scub "Warriors of the Wasteland" retro fit "Run for Cover"
7. Trippet out
8. Life time achievement goes to Colin Moorhead for his countless quality routes and pure psyche for new routing.

[MarkR]

I'll play.

1) Best new trad or mixed crag route (single pitch) hard 11 + , moderate 10-

Best new moderate: Flex Capacitor (5.10 Jeremy Frimer, 2011)

4) Best new multi-pitch

It's probably Sunset Strip, but I haven't done it yet so I'll vote for Hanging Gardens.

5) Best new crag or area.

I feel like the only reasonable answer here is The Longhouse, and that more people aren't voting for it suggests to me they haven't been up there yet.

6) Best re-scrub and retrofit.

Bulletheads East

7) Best new route name and back story

Flex Capacitor is actually a pretty great name, now that I think about it.

[tobyfk]

i'm voting for stuff i've been on.

A clever tactic ... voting on Facebook AND the forum to confuse the judges