TR: Solar System 7p (10a, A0)
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- Casual Observer
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- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:44 am
TR: Solar System 7p (10a, A0)
Seems there isn't much beta out there for Solar System on Habrich. I climbed it a couple weeks back, and figured I should share some beta... I didn't bring my camera, so no pictures.
Express trip report: Solar System 7p (10a, A0)
-parked at the gate on shannon cr FSR, then biked to the turnoff for Sky Pilot
-hiked up to the base on Habrich on a steep, well traveled trail
Start: Just left of the direct start to Life on Earth there is a treed blocky corner, with roofs above and left. Scramble a short distance up through the trees. The start is well to the right of the route with a blue bolt.
P1 (5.9) easy blocks behind trees to below and overhang, passed on the right on marginal rock. follow cracks, then slab to a bolted station. felt run out. but maybe just because it was the first slab climbing of the day
P2 (5.9) pull on 3 bolts above the station, then move left, up, and back right on slab to the crack in the back of the big dihedral & a gear belay. a tad run out on marginal gear
P3 (5.4) continue up the ramp 'till it levels off. belay at a tree in a chimney, or from gear a little to the right
P4 (5.9) move 4m right of the tree and climb cracks, dyke, and slab features past a sketchy block to an easier ramp with cracks at the back. gear belay
P5 (5.9) follow the wide corner crack up the open book. belay at the base of the roof. good rock, some grass in the corner. nice jamming and stemming. gear belay
P6 (10a) climb up to and around the roof on the right. layback the lip on less than ideal rock, working around the moss on the face (this pitch must be slow to dry). easier corner/chimey climbing above. watch for loose rock. gear belay where you can find pro (there is a small patch of trees at roughly 30m) #4 C4 to protect the layback crux.
P7 (5.4?) continue up the corner system, and as the angle eases, the amount of loose rock increases
scramble to the top
Gear: doubles to #2, 1x #3 & #4. 1 set of nuts
Descent option 1: Rap Life On Earth (6x 50m?) watch for ropes getting stuck on adjacent features on 1st rap
Descent option 2: Rap Escape Velocity (7x 30m?) - we didn't do this, but maybe a good option if it's windy
-overall, I'd say that I'd much rather do LOE again before I went back for Round 2 on Solar System
-the road up is pretty rough, with no waterbars. I made it OK in my old Honda CRV though.
Express trip report: Solar System 7p (10a, A0)
-parked at the gate on shannon cr FSR, then biked to the turnoff for Sky Pilot
-hiked up to the base on Habrich on a steep, well traveled trail
Start: Just left of the direct start to Life on Earth there is a treed blocky corner, with roofs above and left. Scramble a short distance up through the trees. The start is well to the right of the route with a blue bolt.
P1 (5.9) easy blocks behind trees to below and overhang, passed on the right on marginal rock. follow cracks, then slab to a bolted station. felt run out. but maybe just because it was the first slab climbing of the day
P2 (5.9) pull on 3 bolts above the station, then move left, up, and back right on slab to the crack in the back of the big dihedral & a gear belay. a tad run out on marginal gear
P3 (5.4) continue up the ramp 'till it levels off. belay at a tree in a chimney, or from gear a little to the right
P4 (5.9) move 4m right of the tree and climb cracks, dyke, and slab features past a sketchy block to an easier ramp with cracks at the back. gear belay
P5 (5.9) follow the wide corner crack up the open book. belay at the base of the roof. good rock, some grass in the corner. nice jamming and stemming. gear belay
P6 (10a) climb up to and around the roof on the right. layback the lip on less than ideal rock, working around the moss on the face (this pitch must be slow to dry). easier corner/chimey climbing above. watch for loose rock. gear belay where you can find pro (there is a small patch of trees at roughly 30m) #4 C4 to protect the layback crux.
P7 (5.4?) continue up the corner system, and as the angle eases, the amount of loose rock increases
scramble to the top
Gear: doubles to #2, 1x #3 & #4. 1 set of nuts
Descent option 1: Rap Life On Earth (6x 50m?) watch for ropes getting stuck on adjacent features on 1st rap
Descent option 2: Rap Escape Velocity (7x 30m?) - we didn't do this, but maybe a good option if it's windy
-overall, I'd say that I'd much rather do LOE again before I went back for Round 2 on Solar System
-the road up is pretty rough, with no waterbars. I made it OK in my old Honda CRV though.
Re: TR: Solar System 7p (10a, A0)
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Much appreciated.
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