jungle warfare anchors

[supafly]

climbing this route this weekend. apparently a tree was cut down at the end of guidebook pitch 1 (including the 5.8 corner). is there a bolted anchor there as per squamish select? any other anchor issues?

also.. how difficult is the 5.8 "slippery" corner ending in the offwidth, similar to "the flume" on skywalker?

[Kyle]

I believe there is a bolted anchor after the 10a first pitch but you're better off going up to the next ledge to give the next pitch no rope drag. You do need to build a gear anchor but its in a nice spot. The next pitch is a tree belay and the last two pitches (not counting the end 5.4 walk off pitch) are easily linked with good rope management at the end. The whole thing is pretty easy aside from the first few thuggish moves off the ground which aren't too bad if you know how to plug your fists.

[supafly]

cool thanks kyle.

[MarkR]

Yeah, I used the lower anchors that were maybe 40 feet off the ground (after the 10a crux), and despite some serious runouts and extension to reduce rope drag, the drag was absurd by the time I got into the offwidth. It felt like the rope was pulling me down. Sucked! Yeah, I didn't think the gear looked great for the anchor before the slippery 5.8 section personally, but then I didn't make one, just eyeballed it.

And the slippery 5.8 section is easier than The Flume on Skywalker, IMHO.

[J Mace]

A few feet to the right of where the tree was cut down is a big staple.

[supafly]

So climb past the first anchors and keep going until you get to the bit before the polished 5.8 and there is a staple bolt there?

[MarkR]

That's right Supes. I remember the staple, now that I think about it. More specifically, I remember rolling my eyes and climbing on, then bitching to my partners later about it. It would be nice if there was a proper anchor there.

Can't comment on the rope drag you're gonna have by connecting the bottom 10a section all the way to the staple. There's a giant right angle you have to make as you climb up and left from the first anchors then traverse right to the ledge with that staple. I remember the climbing there being easy (like 5.6 or easier) and I just ran it out to try and prevent rope drag, but we were also climbing from the first set of anchors. I'd suggest assessing how you protected the crux section and how the rope is running when you get to the lower anchors and then decide whether linking them is going to work for you. Now that I've climbed it I kind of know how I'd protect it the next time, but you may find yourself introducing unnecessary angles to your rope (as I did the first time). If I remember correctly I think it's straight up, left around the roof, traverse right, then up and left to the anchors? Maybe even knowing that will help you extend as necessary.

Have fun! I've heard the route trashed but I think it's a great day out.

[J Mace]

Then rap flight simulator on a single 60-lots of short raps but you start right from the last anchor on Jungle almost back to the start.

[supafly]

Why not take the walk off?

[islander]

Has anyone been on this recently? What's the current state of the anchors?

[islander]

How does the great drain compare to Jungle Warfare in terms of difficulty?

[natsdad]

I thought the Great Drain was harder over all, but more satisfying, too. Jungle Warfare is really a one pitch (almost a one move) wonder, whereas the Great Drain has several challenging and thought-provoking pitches.

[islander]

I thought the Great Drain was harder over all, but more satisfying, too. Jungle Warfare is really a one pitch (almost a one move) wonder, whereas the Great Drain has several challenging and thought-provoking pitches.

Thanks! The 10b pitch sounds interesting - kind of offwidth/squeeze, kind of layback

[FreddieVickers54321]

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[MartinLaw]

Thanks for the useful info. We are couples person from my company who want to go there.