Angel's Crest Information

[jhwhite05]

Hey Everyone,
Would love some insider info on Angel's Crest. Any help is appreciated. A few questions:
1. From your recollection, what pitches are linkable with a 60 meter rope?
2. Any route finding tips to help speed up the ascent?

Love any feedback ya'll might have.

Thanks!

[BlahMatt]

-If you don't climb the tree to start, link the first 2 pitches to the base of angel's crack (you'll have some drag on the final slab). Recommend climbing the tree.
-Do Angel's crack as one pitch (p3)
-Link p4 and p5 (place little gear going around the corner at the start of p5, but still expect some drag)
-Link p6 and p7
-Pitch out the rest

If I'm not simul climbing through the easier middle pitches that's generally how I do it.

Route Finding:
-To find the route make sure you are on the right trail! . You'll see the "AC" signs on the trees.
-Once you get to the wall, walk left and it is quite short up the gully. You'll see the plaque on the wall.
-On the parts where you walk through the forest, follow the well worn trails. There are a couple of others that are less used. Try not to follow those .

[jhwhite05]

That's really helpful!

Thanks for tips. We'll follow your instruction

I would imagine it's a route which sees some wetness....what's the turnaround to climb this route on reasonably dry rock after rain?

Thanks for your help!

[J Mace]

It will be good to go in about 8-9 months

[Drew]

No way, you can climb that in January, and you don't even need tools and crampons

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Great-White ... 1759n.html

[Lurch]

Lol, It was November Drew. but close. You beat me too it!

It is entirely possible to climb Angel's Crest pretty much all year round if you prepare for the conditions. I wouldn't suggest climbing in the snow without tools, unless you get it the first day it snows and even then, it ain't easy.. Lol

There will be a few wet patches along the way, but nothing you can't deal with. Give it a couple days to dry out and it's as good as it's going to get in the fall.

When blahmatt says "do p3 angel crack as one" what i think he means is link it with p4, the short, technical 10 b/c pitch above.

After the Acrophobes rappel I find it easiest to simul over the notch of the upper tower and climb up to the tree at the base of the upper crack to belay. That way you avoid the horrible rope drag you would endure by linking this pitch. Everything after that should be dry. We didn't encounter any ice on the upper pitches in November.

Have fun!!

[jonny2vests]

It is entirely possible to climb Angel's Crest pretty much all year round if you prepare for the conditions.

That is very interesting to know big man. Hope you're mending well,

Jon