bullethead east??

[glomeruli]

looking for some clarification on this route.

we climbed it with beta from the Mclane guide which, to me, reads that the second pitch is left of rainy day woman's second pitch. but looking at the newest squamish select it appears that the second pitch starts the same for both routes before splitting. which is it???

for the second pitch we started by traversing out left, (a pretty good swing if you fell off of good feet), before gaining a crack leading over a bulge, then trending back right and up... what route is this if not BHE?



thanks
dave

[mcfly]

I think that the pitch you climbed (leftmost line above pitch 1) is one of the newer variations to Bullethead East - it was recently scrubbed and is not in either guidebook. This pitch is graded 10b. The original Bullethead East 2nd pitch is further to the right and shares the same start as Rainy Day Woman. The original 2nd pitch is graded 10c. All the pitches (and variations) of Bullethead East are well worth doing IMHO!

[Kyle]

The new 10a (10b?) variation on BHE after the initial 5.9 pitch is a great way to climb this multi as it brings you up very direct. This will lead you into what I thought was not only the best pitch on BHE but one of my favorite fun climbs in Squamish: The Stem Box. It's pretty cool. If you havn't done it yet, get on it. After that, the 4th pitch of grovelness up the 10b was one of my most hated climbs but that was due to my terrible lack of flare chimney skills. The other option on pitch 4 is much better. My other most hated climb was Canadian Compromise (I've gotta learn how to climb these types of things better, haha).