apologizing to Colin Moorehead, thoughts on route developers

[jessejames]

The owner of this site, Dave Jones, asked me to publicly apologize to Colin. I won't, and here's why.

First, I never attacked Colin personally. I don't know Colin, but I'm sure he's a swell dude. I didn't even realize Sunset Strip was his route.

But Colin developed a route for the public, so he should expect praise - as well as criticism - for his efforts. You can't please everyone all of the time. Obviously.

Route developers are not much different than artists; they imagine a beautiful line emerging from dirty moss and choss. Developing a route requires creativity and vision, just like painting the Mona Lisa (though it seems to be a lot more work!).

Artists, of course, absorb colossal amounts of criticism. In fact, if you're an artist and you DO NOT get criticized, then you're probably not much of an artist at all. You're not worth talking about!

By this line of reasoning, Colin should actually be very thankful that I lambasted his new line. People love a fiery debate, and it got folks out on the rock, clipping his bolts.

Like an artist, I think Colin must have thick enough skin to shrug off a little criticism. His calm and thoughtful reply to my concerns shows he is a professional, and above petty flame wars. Of course I still disagree with him about the route! But that's not the point.

Adults should be able to disagree without sinking into silly ad-hominem attacks like little kids scuffling on a playground. The childish reactions on this board really surprised me! But maybe they shouldn't have. Climbers are, after all, just people.

And if I poked the hornet's nest, well, so much the better. I'm sure you all had a blast.

[NateDoggOG]

I haven't climbed Sunset Strip yet, so can't speak as to the quality of it, but here are my observations, based on the original thread and people's responses.

I'm not speaking for everyone, but I believe that the "ad hominem attacks" on your opinion of the route in question were based not on what you said, but how you said it. There's a huge difference between criticism and full on mudslinging.

The way you referred to the route developer was "people are just plain stupid, and would be better off bolting single-pitch sport." You never named Colin personally, but that is definitely a personal attack. Obviously, there is always going to be controversy around new routes, whether it is the route in itself, the cleaning, pretty much everything down to the direction of the bolting.

However, there is a much more appropriate way to broach the topic without being offensive. Of course you have your opinion, as does everyone else, and no one is asking you to change that. That would be ridiculous.
Dave Jones isn't asking you to apologize for what you think of the route. But the way you worded your opinion was not tactful, and it was an attack, however indirect, on Colin Moorehead. It is for that which he wants you to apologize, and personally, I don't think it is asking much at all.

[jessejames]

no apologies for criticizing a route, Nate, but I *will* apologize to YOU.

sorry for peeing on you on Milk Road! Ha.

You don't want to be behind someone on those dihedrals. The wind will always get ya

[Drew]

The original post reminds me of the line "You can leave your mouth closed and be thought an idiot or open it and remove all doubt."

[dakine]

jessejames = internet troll, if you feed trolls they grow and become more annoying. Starve it and they go away.

[jred]

Have you even bothered to read your first post? Firstly, who asked for your unqualified, aggressive opinion of anything? Much like yourself your comparison of developers to artists is lame. Developers are not artists and artists do not value idiotic, ignorant attacks of their work, they value intelligent, informed and well thought out discussions based on their work. Basically what you did was whine about a simple 5.10 move, complained about something publicly that could threaten future route development and made personal attacks towards a solid community member without having even climbed the route. Not a single person took your side or agreed with a single thing you said. Time to slink away with your tail between your legs having made a complete A$%^#@ of yourself.

[brownie]

Jesse, dude..

Not only do you literally piss on parties behind you but you complained about the first two pitches of Milk Road the entire time you two were climbing them. I am not saying that people shouldn't be able to speak their mind, but if you don't like climbing rock, don't. The gym's are manicured and safe; no undesired run outs, no slime from constant seepage and even a well lit washroom for you to sit down and pee in. You're lack of climbing skills; which you demonstrated so well while dogging your way up the beauty dihedral pitch on Milk Road, all the while proclaiming how it was the best corner in Squamish, bring to light the style in which you have made such proud ascents of "every 12- in Squamish. This first hand view of your style of ascent and the fact that you were making your 2nd bring up the tag line has me extremely woried about your guiding clients. I hope you realize why it is important that the follower should not have a thin tangly length of rope behind them while you belay from above. As a guide one should be expected to mitigate risks at all costs, as a climber one should be expected to do the very same thing.

I sincerely hope you use this opportunity Dave gave you for the positive and apologize for stirring up this shitstorm and put an end to this silly chest beating.

We all have to accept we're the guy in the wrong every now and again.

I guess what makes the better man is how he goes about it..