TR A Great Day at the Crags with my Kids

[squamish climber]

May 4th and it's like summer just fell on our lap two months early. My kids have been asking me to take them climbing so today seemed like the perfect day. We piled our gear in the car and of course our Bernese Mountain dog Summit, seemed so sad to be left behind so we made room in the back hatch and were on our way.

Is it just me or has the Sea to Sky become a super popular cycling route? We passed about a dozen clusters of cyclists on the way up. So a word of caution to everybody driving to Squamish in the morning, be prepared to give those two wheelers room.

Before we could hit the wall we needed to get some shoes and helmets for Holden and Avery so we dropped into Climb-On and paid Dan, the owner, a visit. I had not been there since last summer and found he’s moved back to his old location at 2nd Avenue and expanded by partnering with OutWest Sports. The shop was busy, a lot of folks were buying shoes, it was a good thing he just got a shipment in, including some kids sizes. He also had just received an order of kids, Mamut helmets, we got the first one out of the box. I was pleased with how well it fit. There were good adjustments on the back for either side, plus adjustments on the chin strap, which eliminates the need for adding those cumbersome sticky pads. The helmet also has a bit of a visor. I would recommend this helmet. So does anybody have any more info on Climb-On? It seems like a good move to broaden the product line outside climbing. Anyhow, good luck Dan.

Moving on we made one more stop to talk to Adrian at Zephyrs Cafe. He is the new owner at Zephyrs and a fresh resident of Squamish. Adrian has just taken up rock climbing and says he’s addicted. So good luck Adrian and hope to see you out on the rock when you’re not running the best little eatery in town. Cleveland Avenue and downtown Squamish seemed to have a lot more buzz and energy, has anybody else noticed this? There were tons of people out walking on the sidewalks hanging outside Zephyrs and the other cafes. I hope this a sign of a strong revitalization happening.

Of course when you have kids patience is a foreign concept. Holden and Avery couldn’t wait to get climbing, but then, there’s always a bit of sorting of gear to do in the parking lot. That task was made more difficult this time by a ten and eight year old repeating every 30 seconds “can we get going now”. The parking lot was full by the way, causing me to be a little worried we would be waiting around to climb, but that proved unfounded.

Once we hit the trail and were hiking up the hill it was impatience in hyperdrive. Now Holden and Avery thought our destination crag at Lumberland was too far. They wanted to climb right away at the Runestone Wall, or Mosquito or Neat & Cool or whichever crag we happened to walk by next. Fortunately we ran into Brian Moorhead, chair of the Smoke Bluffs Park Advisory Committee. Brian had a great way of telling entertaining anecdotes and asking questions which kept the Holden and Avery from focusing on the hike in.

Busy at Smoke Bluffs but still uncrowded routes thanks to new crags spreading climbers out.

So we made it to Second Avenue, at Lumberland. This is a new collection of fine easy moderates cleaned up by Hevy and Erica, his soul mate and partner in crime. I’ve got to say this is a nice place to go for some relaxed climbing especially when you have young climbers starting out. The angle is friendly, and the rock is very sticky. The one detraction and it’s not a big one is that most of the cruxes are right off the ground.

Second Avenue at Lumberland (not in Squamish Select 2012)

For the kids on top rope this worked out well because once I told them they were past the hard part, it made it easier for them to plow on to the top. I would say this place beats Burgers and Fries for taking out first timers. It’s a little more shaded on the landings, the rock is nice and the anchors are great and right where you want them.

Holden near the top of a 5.6

Thanks Brian for introducing me to this new crag and thanks Hevy and Erica for the excellent job cleaning and setting up these routes. The kids did a couple of easy 5.6s and sevens and I enjoyed a 5.8 and 5.9 that required a bit of pre-thinking to get up.

Holden and Avery didn’t want to go but when I said we would check out the bouldering in the new Kids Zone I was able to get them to pack up. I saw Ander’s Ourum, the former pres. of Climbers Access Society of BC heading into the park when we were there. Anders was climbing with another guy named Anders what are the chances of that? I wonder if the second Anders is Norwegian too? The kids zone is starting to look very nice.

Nice Bouldering Slab in the Kids Zone (Grade ?)
There was a little traverse and then a turn up the corner they enjoyed clambering on but beyond that the boulders are more like V1 and up. In other words this is more of a Dad and Mom climb while children eat sandwiches zone. Still I see potential here. What do people think should be built or happen in this area?

Great place for lunch in the Kids Zone

That just about wraps up the day. On the way out we ran into Hevy and Erika so I was able to tell them how great I thought the climbing was at Lumberland and to thank them for their efforts.

Erica and Hevy - the numero uno crag developer team

We got to the car lot and loaded the gear and the dog for the trip back to BI. As we buckle up Holden says with a wide smile, “Thanks Dad I had a great day” and Avery pipes in, "Yeah, I had a lot fun.” Yup, it’s days like this that make being a Dad so worth it.

Great kids and future climbers

[scrubber]

Awesome Dave!

[rockdawg]

I went to 2nd Avenue on Saturday and it is indeed a good area for kids with lots of moderate climbing and bolted anchors. I took a photo of the topos - not too meaningful unless you are standing in front of the crag, but gives you an idea of what is there. The climb up the dyke is particularly aesthetic.

[squamish climber]

Hey Rockdawdg,

Looks like your kid was psyched to climb. Thanks for posting the topos.

[rockdawg]

Went back to this crag a few weekends ago. Also popped into Climb On for some beta and to look for climbing shoes for my youngster. Found a great deal in their consignment section - like-new Sportivas for $30!!! Woot Woot! Now he is stoked with his first pair of real climbing shoes.