Good piece of mountaineering lit - Will Stanhope in Gripped

[squamish climber]

Just read Will's piece The Prophet in this spring's Gripped issue. It's well written and pulls you through to the end.

In the article you learn a bit more about Will's near-career/life ending groundfall in England (written in slightly understated prose), making enduring friendships on the wall and pushing the limits of what you think is possible. Here's a little excerpt:

The magic hour came right before dusk, when the rock turned an orange-pink colour. The shadows crept across from El Cap, swallowing up the corners one by one, urging me to lace up tight and try the A1. On the first go I climbed nervously, barn-doored out of the crack and thumped onto the end of the rope. Was this going to be a repeat of last year?, I wondered.

Enough of the past. It was time to be present in the here, the now. With that thought in mind, I immediately felt better. On the next try I arrived at the rest before the crux, a big foothold before the crack heads left to the arête. Big deep breaths, I told myself. I could hear my friends shouting encouragement from the meadow and from across the wall. Time to dip deep. Fight to the death.

Nice work Will and keep on writing.

BTW for a little more insight to Will's 'world view' check out the video of him soloing Zombie Roof if you haven't already. It's also superbly produced with a great history of Squamish hard climbers and how they inspired people like Will