Unheralded Squamish classics

[hans]

I'm liking the Top 100 list in the new Squamish Select guidebook, as I'm finding myself exploring some new climbs and areas in an attempt to fill in the gaps. But I can't help but wonder about the great climbs that didn't make the cut.

What are your favorite Squamish climbs that, say, didn't get as many stars as you thought they should, or didn't even get included in the new guide?

Off the top of my head:

Everything Under the Sun (P2 is amazing IMO)
Crescent Crack (probably 4-5 stars if it wasn't closed to climbing)
Borderline (P3 fantastic)
Orifice Fish (5.9s this steep are rare)
Garfield (best 5.7 around)
St Vitus Direct

Thoughts?

[natsdad]

Hi Hans:

I like all the ones on your list, especially Crescent Crack and Everything Under the Sun. I also like Popeye and the Raven (unusual moves for Squamish) and Slap and Tickle and Quagmire Crack. Pitches 2 & 3 of Millennium Falcon are very cool and after climbing Photophobia this summer, I'd add it to that list as well.

cheers,
Steve

[hans]

Slap and Tickle is awesome. The crux is a mini dyno for me. Much better than HMW .

I haven't tried Quagmire Crack yet. I'll have to get on that.

[t-bone]

I'd agree with Quagmire Crack, and would also add:

Elephantiasis
Supernatural p1

[mcfly]

Disaster Response Route (pitch 2)
go climb it while it's still dry!

[gnarnaphobe]

The south arête
White lightning
The sunshine chimneys(all three)
Overly hanging out
Yosemite pinnacle right side

Those are a few I really enjoy but don't seem to get as much traffic as they deserve.

[slinky]

Most of the previously listed routes are heralded or at least moderately popular. Overly
Hanging Out, Garfield, Orifice Fish, Borderline, Quagmire Crack, Popeye and the Raven, Crescent Crack all receive multiple ascents per season. White Lightning used to be very popular but is less so due to the abundance of homogenous over/rappel bolted slab climbs courtesy of Barley, Thompson, Hanzel, McLane, et al.

So without much further ado or mudslinging (more of that below) here is my list. These climbs would be in the upper end of whatever star system you prefer. These puppies go seasons without an ascent.

Through Pastures Green 5.11d As you stand in line waiting for a turn on Couch, Flingus, or Plum Line, this fully bolted Sanford route (don’t worry it is not that sandbagged) sits empty. Easily as good as any other sport route on the cliff.

Karma Police 5.11c Excellent movement on great rock. A couple of bolts supplemented by technical gear placements that will keep your brain as engaged as your fingers.

Gold Digger 5.11d Moving out right after the crux of Claim Jumper the sustained, crimpy, climbing is marginally protected by a thin seem. All but the most confident climbers would be well advised to drop a top rope down this one to pre inspect the gear.

Hiphugger 5.8 “Squamish climbers have such a hard time in Yosemite because we don’t have enough wide stuff to practice on”... bullsh*t!! You just choose not to. Beside some awkward, roundabout approach climbing this squeezer has the elements of a classic crack: clean, parallel, and sustained. With no edges for assistance and no crack in the back for pro it is important to remember the Yosemite wide crack adage “your body is the pro” if you want more, seek out Constriction Chimney and Compression Crack, although too scruffy for this list they teach valuable lessons in squeezing.

Damn the Torpedoes 5.10c Kevin sold himself short when he gave this one only one star in his own guidebook. The steep first pitch is as good as any classic 5.10 in the bluffs, although I didn’t do the second pitch due to wetness it also looked great.

Bushdoctor 5.11b an overhanging finger crack which leads to more overhanging fingers, this is one of the best one pitch 5.11’s around. Excellent pro. Someone please clean the Grip of Kaffir Dog while you’re up there, it looks awesome!

Diamondback 5.10b A true hidden gem as it is not really visible from anywhere. Once you pull into this glacier polished corner/groove you will be impressed by the impeccable stone and technical movement. The thin crack protects well with multiple tiny/small wires and cams don’t seem to work so well, don’t try this with your half a$% half set of wires and creaky blue alien.

The Big Scoop 5.11b This route has been maligned online and omitted from recent guidebooks. It’s detractors likely got schooled on the severely overhanging thin hands (almost a roof crack) and the sporty mantle, upon reaching the belay they were further dismayed by the lack of a fixed anchor. Personally I liked these elements. Despite its scruffy look, this route stands proudly alongside its popular neighbors. The second pitch (mostly the same as Astronomy pitch2) badly needs recleaning but is comparable in length and character to the money pitch on Milk Run.

Awaiting Eternity 5.11c The only thing that takes away from this beautiful arête is its short stature. If this climb were on England’s Gritstone it would be a celebrated E5 and would have been featured in numerous cool, small production climbing movies with great soundtracks. Easily top roped from the Brown Ale anchors, this climb is closed so remember your aliases in case BC rail cops show up…

Strawline 5.11c This routes praises are being sung by the old schoolers. And they are right, it is totally awesome, one of the best 5.11’s going, especially the lower overhanging bit with dueling thin cracks and athletic arête grabs and hooks. The upper crack needs gardening. An independent anchor so you don’t have to step back into the OHO anchor, would be a big improvement. The ledge it starts from, Meares Island, was clearcut in ’85, it has recovered to full on jungle status and needs a second cut. Its ok they are just vegetables…

Where Ancients Fear to Tread 5.10 Classic, as good as any 5.10 in the bluffs. Unfortunately, bolting of squeezed in routes, direct finishes and the dynamiting off of the start have reduced its character a bit. Although not as well protected as the Zip the route has enough good gear to keep it safe and a leader competent at the grade should have no problem. It is ironic that Robin kind of wrecked his own classic route by bolting the forgettable Toasted Tits right through WAFTT. When done properly this route is a proud onsight that will leave a lasting impression. The line is incorrect in several guidebooks. Start by connecting the edge of the shot holes up to a shallow thin crack to the right of Geritol, make an exciting move between horizontals to another thin crack, at the top of this boldly hand traverse all the way right doing your best to ignore the finish and bolt of Toasted Tits.

Silly Putty .11a Most of the crack climbs in the Bluffs are actually slabs that happen to have a crack in them. You don’t get stronger by climbing in the Bluffs (yes this why you are stuck at .10b and why you get totally schooled on 5.10 in most other areas). Silly Putty is an exception to this rule, this diagnolling thin crack is amazingly incut. It takes place on a gently overhanging wall with virtually no feet, it will leave your forearms feeling like…you get the idea. Make sure your second is as up for it as you are or you will find yourself epic-ing on a 12 m route 50m from your car. Trees have sprung up and really crowded out this wall, they will need to be composted.

[gnarnaphobe]

Good lord.

What a list!

[natsdad]

Most of the previously listed routes are heralded or at least moderately popular. Overly
Hanging Out, Garfield, Orifice Fish, Borderline, Quagmire Crack, Popeye and the Raven, Crescent Crack all receive multiple ascents per season. White Lightning used to be very popular but is less so due to the abundance of homogenous over/rappel bolted slab climbs courtesy of Barley, Thompson, Hanzel, McLane, et al.

Thanks, Slinky:

You've inspired me to set some new goals for next season (although most of your recommendations are harder than I can lead...). And that made me think of some fun, and relatively untraveled, easier lines to mention:

Fata Morgana 5.8 - diverse and interesting climbing
Cardu Crack 5.8 - nice, long hand jamming crack
Gross Incompetence 5.9 - psychologically challenging move coming around the corner...
Daydream Believer 5.10b - not very hard for the grade, but lots of interesting climbing (needs way more traffic).

cheers,
Steve