Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

[jipstyle]

I'll second the vote for High Mountain Woody. Everything about this climb appeals to me.

The approach is fun. The climbing is varied, casual and fun. The views are spectacular .. in fact, the entire setting is great. There is very little road noise, which is a big plus for me given that the highway is a constant presence in Squish. The pro is easy ... I don't think I've protected it the same way twice. It is just long enough that it feels like you've accomplished something when you top out.

The only thing that it lacks is spice .. there really isn't a single point on that pitch where you have to nut up and go.

[jonny2vests]

Second pitch of sunblessed. (BTW, least favorite pitch is the last pitch of that climb)

Which way? I've only been on it once, and went up some slab out left, then a corner. Really good! No wide cracks.

[jonny2vests]

exasperater in one 50m go

rug munchers

Had a go at Rug Munchers on a pouring wet June day, 90% dry, guess which bit I fell off. Need to do the Ex-Parrot-Eater in one.

[natsdad]

Second pitch of sunblessed. (BTW, least favorite pitch is the last pitch of that climb)

Which way? I've only been on it once, and went up some slab out left, then a corner. Really good! No wide cracks.

Hi J2V:

It sounds like you did the last pitch of Mere Mortals (I may have the name wrong), rather than the final pitch of Sunblessed. That is a good and popular alternative. But it is different altogether. After finishing the long crack of Pitch 2, you scramble (low 5th) up to a big corner with belay bolts. This is the final pitch of Sunblessed.

Someone bolted the blunt arete to the right of this - has anyone ever climbed that? Any good?

Steve

[johnL]

Natsdad,

As soon as you said that, it makes a lot more sense. If I get up there again I'll try. As bearbreeder has routinely pointed out, I always find the worst possible method of doing any given climb.


Steve and j2v,

Yeah sounds like you did mere mortals.

The arete on the right looked great but there were no hangers on the first two bolts when I was there in July. It didnt look to hard to get to the third one, but the fall potential was enough to make me reconsider.

[jonny2vests]

Right. So no tick for me then.

[jipstyle]

if you like HMW, do slap and tickle ... similar length and style of climbing except more technical with a moderate slab traverse finish ... you can even combine it with the crux move of HMW ... its good 5.9+ climbing ... takes beautiful gear all the way, bring extra cams and nuts

Thanks! I'll try to fit that one it before I move south .. or at least put it on the list for when I come back. Sounds like an ideal route for me.

[Brendan]

Second pitch of sunblessed. (BTW, least favorite pitch is the last pitch of that climb)

Or alternatively, finish up p3 of Mere Mortals at .10-. A much better finish than the wide corner.

[natsdad]

Right. So no tick for me then.

Hi J2V:

Since you've already done the last pitch of Mere Mortals, I'd encourage you to give the final pitch of Sunblessed a go using this alternative technique. I actually enjoy it when I do. Let us know if you do.

Steve

[BlahMatt]

Right. So no tick for me then.

Hi J2V:

Since you've already done the last pitch of Mere Mortals, I'd encourage you to give the final pitch of Sunblessed a go using this alternative technique. I actually enjoy it when I do. Let us know if you do.

Steve

I'll second this. I enjoyed the last pitch of sunblessed quite a bit. It's obviously not as stellar as the second but, very enjoyable and it makes you think.

[Dru]

Favorite pitch and favorite route are obviously pretty different things. My favorite pitch is probably some one pitch deal that's maybe not even all that good but that stands out as a personal milestone. Favorite route would be one of the long ones, even though none of the individual pitches on it might be a fave pitch. I mean I like the Buttress a lot even though more than half of it is hiking and there's only one real good pitch on it.

I suppose that overall the money pitch on Rock On is one of my favorites and on a favorite route too. I'd been psyched out by it before doing it, I managed the onsight, then I climbed it five more times that summer including getting to take Fred Beckey up it for my first time ever climbing with him. Those memories are hard to top.

[Lurch]

I'll second that Dru! Last pitch of Rock On is stellar!






I was also quite partial to Mercy Street p2

Amazing pitch!

[bret]

still new to the area, maybe 25 routes climbed, but here is my 2¢

favorite gear pitch: filibuster on Right WIng (had to chop it in half, not confident enough yet to string them together)

bolted: Good Times at fern hill is pretty awesome. Especially how the roof section is easier then it looks.

[sibylle]

Crack: P2 of Sunblessed
Layback: P3 of Great Game
Corner, stem: P3 of Rock On
Chimney: Last pitch Angel's Crest
Sport: Token Brits Direct

[Kyle]

Center Street at Crag X has got to be one of my favorite cracks. Never get sick of doing it and I don't understand why it's so under rated. No one is ever on it. You can pretty much almost rappel it (short easy downclimb) with a 70m too for those that don't want to belay from the top or do two raps to get off of it. First pitch of Daily Planet is rad too.
One of my favorite sport climbs would be Teenage Girls Don't Blow Gorbies with the newer start to the right of the old one. Too Pink To Think would have beat it if I go back and lead it with just clipping bolts.