Squamish's stiffest routes...

[scrubber]

Ok here's the compliment thread to the one about how soft we are and how ego inflating our grades are. What do you think are Squamish's hardest routes for their grade? We'll start it with the last few comments from the other thread:

Next thread:
What are the hardest pitches in Squamish for their current guidebook grade. (most recent Bourdon or McLane guide book)

I thought that slab to the L of Klahane Crack was the living end for 10b, and the first bolt is in orbit.

^^^^That would be the first pitch of Local Boys do Good^^^

Some of my votes would be:
2nd pitch of High Plains Drifter
Pipeline
Yosemite Crack on Tantalus Wall (I'm sensing a off-width weakness here...)

[gnarnaphobe]

The offwidth pitch on borderline

[hevyduty]

heavenly ladder its even harder than O fish , Coronary bypass is pretty stiff !

[gnarnaphobe]

Coronary bypass is pretty stiff !

pretty clean too

I also find the 10b traverse pitch of cruel shoes to be just as hard as all the 10d sections.

[jonny2vests]

I want to say Split Beaver, but part of me knows it feels undergraded because maybe I don't have the requisite skills. But I also can't dyno 2 meters which is arguably a useful skill on any route.

So Split Beaver.

The forum is on fire!

[jonny2vests]

Interesting reading from some johnny foreigners (non-Canadians, idiots the lot of them)

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... s/213795/3

[natsdad]

The offwidth pitch on borderline

I second that one. I find the earlier 5.10d pitch way easier than this bolted offwidth pitch.

Steve

[Sang]

Caboose

[jstod]

Can't remember the name, but I recently climbed that linkup that starts right of Horrors of Ivan, traverses through that climb and finishes on Mr. O'clock. Seemed harder for me than your average Squamish 10c.

[Dru]

Correct me if I'm wrong but hasn't Glenn Payan's slab route Tools of Moss Destruction at Fern Gully gotten significantly harder from the original 11b as the tiny holds wore away from excessive toproping?

Boogie Till You Puke was butch back when (pre-2005 guidebook) it was supposed to be 10c. But I know a few people who climbed it, but not Pipeline, because Pipeline was supposed to be so much harder. Now it's Pipeline that gets done a lot and BtyP that is feared.

[tendollarpants]

There's a 10a pitch that starts below Quagmire Crack. I don't have the guide book in front of me, but I think it gets 3 stars. All I got from it was super-pumped (making Quagmire feel extra sustained).

possibly the hardest 10a i've ever suffered through around here.

[Mike Teschke]

Second caboose... and add Bop til you Drop to the list.

[nicke]

The climb mentioned above on the Milkman Wall is The Weak Link, and I agree that it's a total sandbag.

A few others that come to mind as at least not being soft:

• Rufus (11c)
• Wild Turkey (11a)
• U-Wall (12a) - in particular pitch 3
• Dancing with the Village Idiot (10c)
• Flight Simulator (12a)
• Red Nails (11c)
• Spiderfly (12a)

[Dru]

I seem to recall climbing Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked by the route. Ran into John Howe later at the coffee shop and he asked me what I had been climbing. He laughed when I told him. Pretty sure that that suggests his opinion of the grade on that one.

Clean Corner is pretty hard for a Squamish 5.8 too.

[Brendan]

The offwidth pitch on borderline

That’s because you’re doing it wrong
There is a way to make it literally no harder than the given grade, but it involves climbing left/right of the crack, and involves NO wide crack/chimney techniques.