Iceclimbing - the bluffs?

[the gimp]

I am looking to compile a list of potential ice climbing routes. Any recommendations would be helpful. If you can give me a near by summer rock route as a marker that would help (ie 2m left of cat crack). They need to be within 15min of squamish I am aware of whistler, lillooett and other areas. Any help would be appreciated.

P.s. I do understand they come in for maybe a week a year if we are lucky.

[staven]

I've seen people climbing a thin smear on or near Squamish Logger, between Penney Lane and Bughouse, on some thick flow near a short new route at Funarama Centre called Short & Snappy, and Matt Madaloni climbed Frozen Zombie (M8) 2 winters ago at the Zombie Roof: http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... bie#p15235. There's got to be more.

[psi4ce]

Bughouse Heights area forms several top-rope-accessible ice climbs. Mostly thin smears, but occasionally a fat icicle forms as well in one of the corners.

And I think "Old Age" in between Zombie Roof and Mosquito area forms into a big fat boy icicle.

FYI the Leviticus area across from Murrin forms some fat smears also.

[Dru]

Smoke Bluff Wall has the most ice including Alice, the Myld Thing (Killer Fridge area) and various stuff to the left as far as Frozen Zombie. Alice has some bolts but they are usually covered by ice.

Krack Rock has ice. Up and right of Krack near Cabin Boy's Office the obscure route "Gumby's Inversion" ices up completely at times. "Wet Dream" sometimes has thin ice.

Smears have been climbed along Blind Channel Road near the Zip somewhere.

Aside from that Bughouse Hts, the drip between the two halves of Ronin's, and Funarama mid-crags seeps are your best bets.

Murrin has the Nintendo stuff at the north end (near Strenotechnic), Line Drive across from the parking lot, some ice and mixed in Valley of Shaddai and some ice hidden down by Pet Wall including a WI4 near Czech It Out.

There's a 3 pitch WI3+ called Icetime For Gonzo high on the hillside above the Papoose.

Various obscure things have ben done on the Chief backside trail and of course the Bulletheads gullies (like Black Book and the gully right of Cream of White Mice) can have excellent thin ice.

By far the big prize area is across Olsen Creek from the Chief - Scottish Tale and Hadrian's Wall. Up to 10 pitches long!

Sick Puppy on the Squaw (in the dank gully right of Optimus Prime/Kiddy Corner and left of Indian Queen etc.) is supposed to be a great mixed route with 5.9 slab and offwidth as well as thin ice. ask Bruce for details, I don't think it gets done much.

see West Coast Ice volume 2 as well as the free online update which you can download from Westcoastice.com.

[staven]

A couple of short smears have formed near Pregnant Paws as well, haven't seen anyone on them before but they could go. A survey of every crag in the bluffs for climbable ice could be done in a day or two. Not sure about today's temps, but up until this morning things were still looking beauty.