Sate Le Hate
I guess this is the opinion of many that , in most cases, I don't agree with.perhaps that section of rock wasn't meant to be climbed.
I would agree with leaving blank unclimbable sections of rock untouched on walls like the Chief and El Cap, but a little wall at Skaha or an even smaller wall at Check. Do you guys really feel that Check is some sort of sacred area? It's an outdoor gym.
Stretch, do you really think anyone would climb a near vertical 40 foot 5.15 (or harder) at the Forgotten Wall?
- Clive kessler
- Senior Member
- Posts: 238
- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 8:23 pm
- Location: Vancouver
"no one around here can climb that hard"
What about the talented young guns, guys like Sean McColl who just did Super Man without even trying? They have yet to try something really difficult for them because they will never go out and bolt there own lines. Stretch's example of Down System is a good one. It was left alone, and now it is a hard and independant (if not uber-classic) line.
You guys talk about how you are selflessly giving back to the climbing community in Squamish. For the most part I would agree with you, but you have the chance to do something truely great for the community. Leave your lines unclimbed instead of chipping them down to your ability and leave a lasting legacy for the young, strong climbers who just need a bit of a prod in the right direction.
What about the talented young guns, guys like Sean McColl who just did Super Man without even trying? They have yet to try something really difficult for them because they will never go out and bolt there own lines. Stretch's example of Down System is a good one. It was left alone, and now it is a hard and independant (if not uber-classic) line.
You guys talk about how you are selflessly giving back to the climbing community in Squamish. For the most part I would agree with you, but you have the chance to do something truely great for the community. Leave your lines unclimbed instead of chipping them down to your ability and leave a lasting legacy for the young, strong climbers who just need a bit of a prod in the right direction.
I hate posts that have looping replies!! All parties involved in this post meet at the grand wall parking lot this sunday 3 pm and fight to the death. My money is on Clive. There that settles it. Chipping is wrong boo hoo! Routesetters are bad people. One day we will all evolve into human flys. Sean Mcoll is strong. Stretch is short. I smell bad. Go climbing........please.
Pete L. wrote:Do you guys really feel that Check is some sort of sacred area? It's an outdoor gym.
Coming from someone who almost never climbs with a rope and hasnt been to Chek in over 4 years I would have to agree with Pete. Chek is pretty much the opposite of "destination crag".
You guys should be chipping that place like madmen. I mean, if you guys were to turn another one of Chek's ugly a$% walls into a drilled pocket/chisel fest i might decide to go there again. Imagine the quality climbing that could be had. Most of you guys putting up these new routes are talented and experienced gym route setters, why not put some of that creativity into your next outdoor creation? I say comfortize the painfull, enhance the shallow and when a crucial hold breaks go find a much nicer one in a pile of talus and glue it on.
my .02
And how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain. Remember when I took that home winemaking course, and I forgot how to drive? --Homer Simpson
Short and hard
Rumney wasn't a destination area when Graham and Parady started climbing there either and look at it now.
It still isn't. You just hear about it because the American Climbing press wish to sensationalize a 15ft 5.14d. The Fly, "North America's hardest route". Its a boulder problem now. The hardest routes in the world are in Europe, the climbing press over here just want something to hold their heads up for.
One more thing:
"Enhancing routes is nearsighted and does not take into consideration the abilities of future, stronger climbers" and yet it is o.k. to climb and bolt new routes in an area that is officially closed thereby threatening any chance for access by all future (strong and weak) climbers.
Horne Lake comes to mind.
Just stiring the pot a little more.
Anyone want to go to Horne Lake next week?
"Enhancing routes is nearsighted and does not take into consideration the abilities of future, stronger climbers" and yet it is o.k. to climb and bolt new routes in an area that is officially closed thereby threatening any chance for access by all future (strong and weak) climbers.
Horne Lake comes to mind.
Just stiring the pot a little more.
Anyone want to go to Horne Lake next week?
Touché, I've never denied being a hypocrite. Sorry Nuij, no point fighting once clive's involved, and yes you do smell bad.Pete L. wrote:One more thing:
"Enhancing routes is nearsighted and does not take into consideration the abilities of future, stronger climbers" and yet it is o.k. to climb and bolt new routes in an area that is officially closed thereby threatening any chance for access by all future (strong and weak) climbers.
Horne Lake comes to mind.
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