wall of attrition
wall of attrition
anyone have any beta on this climb.
anyone know who to ask about upgrading stations on this climb?
anyone know who to ask about upgrading stations on this climb?
Try John Rosholt or Peder Ourom (owner of On Sight in Squamish).
I have not done it but I have heard it is just spectacular. Mostly moderate and well protected, at least up until the roofs. I do not know the state of any fixed pro on it, but if it needs it, a re-bolt and possibly a trundling might increase traffic on a route I hear is excellent.
I have not done it but I have heard it is just spectacular. Mostly moderate and well protected, at least up until the roofs. I do not know the state of any fixed pro on it, but if it needs it, a re-bolt and possibly a trundling might increase traffic on a route I hear is excellent.
Did the first four pitches 2 or 3 years ago. Well worth it. At that time, the stations were okay, but a few of the bolts could have stood replacement. Gear is good, and there are a few fixed pins. Every pitch takes great pro and there is only one mandatory runout IIRC. I'll give you the benefit of my slightly hazy recollection, for what it's worth:
P1: short chimney to a corner, then somewhat runout 10b face/crack to a ledge.
P2: starts right of the belay. Thin crack (FP at crux, 11b or 10c A0) to some wild, steep flakes (10a-ish). Sling belay, I don't think there was a stance at all here.
P3: shortish corner-groove to a roomy ledge. I don't have a very good memory of this pitch, but I seem to remember it's 10a/b.
P4: long sustained layback up a humungous corner, to a crux traverse left to the belay. The crux is well protected but when I did it the holds were covered with slime. Despite the grunge this is a GREAT pitch. Sustained and tiring to a 10+ trad climber.
Descent: I think the rap stations are shown in the guidebook. I can't remember if it's 2 or 3 60m raps to the base of the route, then rap or downclimb the approach (same as U Wall).
Sorry for the vagueness. Hope this helps.
P1: short chimney to a corner, then somewhat runout 10b face/crack to a ledge.
P2: starts right of the belay. Thin crack (FP at crux, 11b or 10c A0) to some wild, steep flakes (10a-ish). Sling belay, I don't think there was a stance at all here.
P3: shortish corner-groove to a roomy ledge. I don't have a very good memory of this pitch, but I seem to remember it's 10a/b.
P4: long sustained layback up a humungous corner, to a crux traverse left to the belay. The crux is well protected but when I did it the holds were covered with slime. Despite the grunge this is a GREAT pitch. Sustained and tiring to a 10+ trad climber.
Descent: I think the rap stations are shown in the guidebook. I can't remember if it's 2 or 3 60m raps to the base of the route, then rap or downclimb the approach (same as U Wall).
Sorry for the vagueness. Hope this helps.
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