Route at Octopus' Garden

[quantum7]

Anyone know the name/grade of the bolted route between Edible Panties and Octopus' Garden?

[Dru]

it can be found with a search on here. can't remember the name but the grade is 11d or so

[squamish climber]

I believe it's called Leonissisation and was first graded at 12a but consensus seems to be 11+. A fun route according people who posted here:

http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... pus+garden

and here:
http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... php?t=1975

[quantum7]

Excellent. Thank you.

[Anders Ourom]

If it didn't already have a name, something like "Pointless Grid Bolt Squeeze Job That Should be a Toprope" might work. There are some crags - Burgers & Fries, Neat & Cool, a lot of the Apron (especially right of Diedre), Octopus' Garden - where where adding new bolts should be discouraged. It tends to detract from existing routes, and may not add much of value.

[Dru]

Hmmm, Anders preaching about squeeze jobs, after squeezing in a wet dirty no-star tree filled crack climb four feet feet to one side of Partners in Crime? I guess age really does affect your memory.

I haven't managed to redpoint Leonissation yet but have worked on it a few times since it went up, and indeed, had eyed it before it was bolted too. It's a quality, independent natural line IMHO. A thin seam and then shallow pockets in glacier polish. Good climbing.

[Anders Ourom]

The Ugly American, which is one to two m right of Partners in Crime, follows a crack for its entire distance. No bolts, natural line. It's no more a squeeze job than say Corner Crack and Flying Circus are.

The only possible squeeze job I can remember being involved in is Bran Flakes, which is only a few m left of A Question of Balance. But we only placed one bolt on each pitch, plus the belay - no grid bolting involved.

[Lurch]

I led "ugly anders" as robin calls it this summer. I found it to be a quality crack which takes good gear and had a pleasantly hard start. I also found it in very clean condition, so it must have been renoed recently.

I would recommend it to any 10a leader as a good challenge. I also found it an excellent way to get on partners, which i love and will definetly make a project next year.

[Anders Ourom]

Glad that it's getting some traffic - I'd meant to do it for years, and finally Kevin Wallis and I got around to it in 1998. We probably could have done a bit more cleaning, but did what was needed and it was clean enough, particularly the hard bits at the bottom and top. If Robin further cleaned it, then it seems a reasonably constructive outlet for some of his energy.

The route was given its name as a comment on a climb done in Cheakamus Canyon soon before, called Captain America (uggh!). The term has its own wikipedia entry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ugly_American), and was the title of a bestseller (in the USA) in 1958. FWIW, one of my grandmothers was born in the US.

Robin's ad hominem remarks aren't to be taken seriously.

[scrubber]

I thought the slab route at Octopus's Garden was great. In my books "squeeze job" means something that can be reached from adjacent routes. So if you were climbing on a harder route, but had to make a conscious effort not to grab the bigger holds on the easier route right beside you that's a bit tight for me.

I concur that the route is very different in character than most of what's there already. Diversity is good isn't it? What I find interesting though is the interest is generates from the 5.7 to 5.9 single pitch crowd. That kind of thing is what's going to plant the seed for a few future hard slab climbers.

If someone today flails their way up it and has a great time, they might start dreaming about all of those central Apron slab classics like Dancing in the Light and Dream On for future adventures. (I had a formative experience like that once, and now it's one of my most rewarding forms of climbing)

Kris

[harihari]

It's dirty harry's route and it's a perfect line-- crack to very hard slab moves on natural holds. the real squeze jobs int he garden are slammed in between various cracks, not out where harry's route is.