Climbing Stairway to Heaven

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
quantum7
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:50 pm

Climbing Stairway to Heaven

Post by quantum7 » Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:30 pm

Climbing this tomorrow and wondering if anyone has any helpful beta not included in the guide.Not sure what to do at the Milllenium Falcon section (do one or three pitches). Also wondering the status of the project pitches. Thanks for any tips.

mcfly
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:35 am
Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish

Post by mcfly » Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:43 pm

With a 60m rope and some extra draws you can link pitches 2 & 3 of Women in Comfortable Shoes / both pitches of Xenolith Dance / the 2 pitches of Millenium Falcon immediately above Bellygood Ledge / both pitches of Ladies First.
Don't know the status of the project pitches.

J Mace
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 326
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 1:17 pm
Location: Italy

Post by J Mace » Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:55 pm

How dry are things looking up there?

Quantum, post up when you return and let us know how dry the rock is

you can always suss out upper black dyke as well

User avatar
psi4ce
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:29 pm
Location: Squamish

Post by psi4ce » Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:23 pm

As far as I know the project pitches were never finished.

What we did a few years ago was get to Belyygood as described in the guidebook. Climb a couple pitches of Millennium off Bellygood. Climb a couple link pitches to the Traverse of the Gods. Climb the traverse to Upper Black Dyke, and finish up the final Dyke pitch.

You should read:

http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... way+heaven

tendollarpants
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:44 am

Post by tendollarpants » Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:55 pm

I climbed it in August - and all the beta above is good from what I remember (although we didn't run many pitches together, so I can't speak to that).

I managed to loop the rope under/over/under some of the flakes on the 2nd pitch above bellygood - so if you could watch for that it might avoid the rope drag that I was suffering.

If you go all the way to the top (1st summit), the descriptions & bolt locations at raven's castle are a bit confusing. I have seen 3 guide books with different info. It's all fun up there though...

ken

quantum7
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:50 pm

Post by quantum7 » Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:00 pm

it was wet. made it as far as bellygood but millenium was a bit of a waterfall.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 57 guests